So you think all Drycleaners are the same?

A new customer asked why he should pay me more than his usual dry-cleaner to have his $2,400 hand-made suits serviced; a good question in these times. While I don’t like to answer a question with a question, I asked him why he had this wonderful suit on my counter and not on that of his normal dry-cleaners. His reply was “Well, the suit has lost it's shape, feel and body”, so I answered his question:

"The difference you pay for is experience and investment in equipment, materials and staff, and the overall quality that produces. We always make sure we are up-to-date with developments within the textile industry – manufacturing and materials, and cleaning techniques and products. When it’s worthwhile we invest in new equipment and ensure our staff know how to maximize its capabilities."

I find that this is a common thought. You grab your dirty suit or dress and run to where ever the nearest drycleaner is located. Its just a drycleaner, right? They all do the same thing, right?
Here are 6 reasons I could think of why All Drycleaners Are Not the Same!

1) Did you know that there are no requirements (other than a business license) to become a drycleaner? You can pretty much just put up a sign and be open for business, with zero knowledge or experience! Drycleaning is one of the few businesses I can think of with NO requirements. There are many trade associations that help drycleaners educate themselves - I would never choose a cleaner that was not affiliated with at least the DLI (Drycleaning and Laundry Institute).

2) Textile care is complicated. The drycleaner has no control over how a garment was made, how it has been cared for in the past, or what sort of stains and soils are on the garment. We often don't recal spilling that 7up on our favorite blouse when we are dropping the blouse at the cleaners a week later. Or perhaps all those shirts have been sitting in the back of a car baking for a week while on route to the cleaners.
And care labels are notoriously inaccurate - you can imagine the trouble an inexperienced cleaner could have.

3) Experience, training and on going education is crucial! Drycleaning machines come with “factory standard” computer templates. A good drycleaner will have those programs customized for they types of clothes (sweaters vs cushions) and the weather (hot dry weather verses rain). It takes experience and training to customize key aspects of the cleaning process: rotation of the drum, spin speed, solvent temperature, drying temperature etc. A good operator will also distill 80% of the solvent with each load; this is more expensive but it makes sure the solvent is perfectly clean and pure each time we process clothes.

4) The kinds of equipment available to drycleaners is as varied as the drycleaner operators. There are high tech wetcleaning, drycleaning, tensioning, the list goes on and on. Some of this equipment is very complicated and expensive. Knowing how to use the basic equipment properly is one thing, but investing in the best equipment shows the quality of the operator.

5) Then there is the soap! The soap we add to the dry-cleaning process is the best you can buy in Europe, not the cheapest. This affects the “feel” of the garments, improves their antistatic properties, enhances the brightness of the colors and also offers better stain removal properties. Without getting too technical, it aids dirt particle suspension properties - the soap helps to suspend the dirt particles in the solvent and stops them being re-deposited on to other garments, causing “greying”.

6) Tracking software: A cheap drycleaner can use a regular cash register and staple tags to each garment, then manually assemble and bag an order after cleaning. A better cleaner will use a high end technology that prevents human error (and mis-assembly's), allows you to sign up, pay and check orders on the internet, and use less resources for the packaging process.


So the next time you are considering using a discount cleaners - think about all the things they must be neglecting in order to keep that price low. And try asking a few questions.

A Consumer Guide to Everything You Need to Know About Drycleaning

I just read a great article in a Miami newspaper and wanted to share.

http://www.sun-sentinel.com/business/fl-drycleaning-guide-20110304,0,1866198,full.story

This article does a good job of talking about manufacturing issues where the drycleaner is often blamed, color loss during cleaning is one example. They also talk about a few instances when the manufacturer was fined. One note: in the US, all wearable garments are required to have one method of cleaning on the care label and a content label. It is NOT required to be correct.

I recommend that you look for a cleaner that does not rely on the care label. He should read the care label, but the cleaning method should be based on the Drycleaners experience and testing the garment before cleaning.

Care labels are often wrong and any drycleaner worth their salt will use a care label as a guideline only!

Why going to the cleaners in the rain can ruin your clothes

Where I live we have been having more rain than usual. I commented to a friend that people don't go to the Drycleaners when it's raining. She quickly corrected me. According to her, once we are used to the rain, it no longer deters us from things we need to do.

I began to think about why I thought rain and Drycleaning was not a good mix. . . True, water can cause spots on some silks. I always recommend to my wedding gown clients NOT to bring in their gown on a rainy day unless necessary. . And I insist on protection! Why do I feel so strongly?

So, there you are at the cleaners. You get out of your car with your lovely cashmere sweater or wool suit, and dash into the cleaners to avoid getting drenched. The clerk behind the counter takes your garments, gives you a receipt and puts your items in a bag.

It's done, right? It's out of your hands. . . Or is it?

Here is the danger. . . Drycleaning is "dry". This means there should be no water or moisture in the process. If your cleaner is sub par, and does not air dry your clothes before cleaning, shrinkage, color damage and wrinkling will occur.

So today's tip, don't take wet clothes to the cleaners.

Drycleaning with gasoline: Do not try this at home!

I love these old safety videos! Hope you enjoy

Drycleaning has probably been around since the advent of textile clothing. There are many stories about the origin of drycleaning, all centering on a surprise discovery when a petroleum-type fluid was accidentally spilled on a greasy fabric. It quickly evaporated and the stains were miraculously removed. In spite of the name, drycleaning is not completely dry. Fluids are used in the drycleaning process. In the early days, garment scourers and dryers found several fluids that could be used as drycleaning solvents, including camphene, benzene, kerosene, and gasoline. These fluids are all dangerously flammable, so drycleaning was a hazardous business until safer solvents were developed. In the 1930s, percholoroethylene or *perc*(a nonflammable, synthetic solvent) was introduced and is used today in many drycleaning plants. Other cleaning solvents have been added, and still others are currently being tested. Silicon (GreenEarth) and CO2 are two arguably more environmentally benign solvents - but they are still being tested. Driven by concerns about perc and other drycleaning solvents, has resulted in a sophisticated machine-based process called “wetcleaning” which uses water as the solvent. Wetcleaning is done in specially-designed machines that have to be operated by garment care professionals. While professional cleaners have always employed some form of water-based cleaning methods, often by hand, these historic methods bear little resemblance to the new machine-based wetcleaning process.

Top Ten Ways to Protect Your Clothes from Mildew!

Because the climate where I live is relatively humid, I see many clients with mold/mildew issues in their homes, offices and in their closets.

As molds grow, they cause considerable damage. They leave a musty odor; they discolor fabrics; and sometimes they eat into them until the fabrics rot and fall to pieces. They also discolor leather, paper and plastic!


Mildew and mold have many similar characteristics, but they are different types of fungi, and are often different in color and texture. They both grow in similar moist, warm environments. Mold is more often found in foods, and mildew in paper, your shower and fabrics. However both can be found anywhere there is warm moisture. Mold is often black, green, red, or blue while mildew is usually gray or white (often a dusting of light dots).


Here is my Top Ten List: How to protect your clothes from fungus!


1) Protect your health first! Do NOT shake out anything that has mildew or mold on it, inside your house. You will just be spreading the spores. Take it outside. Sunshine and fresh air will kill the mildew.


2) Mild dry heat discourages mildew. Use dehumidifiers or leave a light bulb turned on in areas where the fungus is most likely to breed (sorry, it must be an incandescent bulb to create heat)


3) Mildew thrives in plastic. Remove clothing from plastic drycleaning bags immediately! There are other reasons not to store clothing in plastic, but this should be enough!


4) Mildew needs dirt or dust to survive. Check your clothes for spots/stains every time you hang them up. Clean your clothes anytime you do not plan on wearing them for a while.


5) Clothes need to breath. Keep about an inch between your clothes (don't cram them in - that will create wrinkles anyway). Keep your closet door open or ajar to help with air flow. Ceiling fans are a great idea in a closet!


6) NEVER hang clothes in your closet, unless they are completely dry.


7) Stuff your shoes and handbags that you don't wear daily with a little tissue. Check the tissue when you discard it, it could be an early warning signal.


8) Position your closet well! If you are building or renovating a home, avoid using outside walls as closet walls, and avoid putting closets near or in bathrooms.


9) Opt for paint, not wall paper on your closet walls.


10) If you see mildew/mold, act early and quickly! There are many pre-bottled solutions on the market today that help to remove mildew from different surfaces. These solutions have specific instructions and should be followed carefully.


2 more notes:


DRYCLEANING CAN REMOVE MOLD. However, if you put your garments back in a storage area with spores in it, the fungus will return quickly. Drycleaning WILL NOT, however, get rid of mold damage. Often mold damages the color or material. This results in damage after drycleaning (color loss, tears, interfacing issues, etc) that wasn't there before cleaning.


OZONE can be used to eliminate the musty odor of the fungus. Not all cleaners have access to this, or even know about it. Be sure to ask for it if you are cleaning items with a musty smell.

The drycleaner and film plastic. . . . Great News!

Most people are aware of the environmental issues related to grocery store plastic bags. Some cities have even talked about charging a fee, similar to the redemption fee on aluminum cans, as a means of discouraging their use. And many folks have taken it upon themselves to start using reusable bags when grocery shopping.
If you are using re-usable grocery bags, I commend you!

Plastic and the drycleaning industry has long been a concern of mine. More so than the solvents - In my opinion. Solvent is 99% recycled in drycleaning, and the remaining 1% should be hauled off and properly disposed. In a home washer, all the water goes straight down the drain along with the soils and detergents. This opinion is arguable, but it's my opinion.

Single use plastic on the other hand, that really concerns me. I have noticed lots of drycleaner using plastic bags with the "ECO" printed on them. This also concerns me.
REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE. . . . . writing ECO on something really doesn't do anything.

I am providing here the breakout (pro and con) of the options available. One option I am not providing is giving back the clothes without protection. I know this is the best option. . . . and it is how it was done before about the 1950's. The cleaner would remove the clothes from the hanger, and hand it to the customer without a bag! Amazing!

-- Biodegradable: Not available in the drycleaning industry. Corn based and not crystal clear. May degrade on the clothes even if it were avail.

-- Degradable: Available and many cleaners are using it. Plastic breaks down into fine particles, then is around for 100,000s of years. NOT RECYCLABLE!

-- Reusable mesh garment bags: Pricey, and not cleanable. Most of these bags are advertised as environmental, "Bring in your dirty clothes, then convert it to a garment bag" Well, They are really disposable because they are not woven and therefore not cleanable. They also tend to tear, causing damage and lost clothing.

-- Recycling: You need to find a manufacturer who will use the product. At a recent business meeting our local trash hauling company made the public statement that "There are currently NO manufacturers using film plastic, so all film plastic is being put in a landfill". ---

THANKFULLY I did some research and that is not true. There is a market for film plastic, mostly in China. I found a manufacturer in Nevada that would purchase film plastic from my facility directly. I have decided that this is currently the best option. I am installing a bailer next month and will be actively collecting film plastic from all the cleaners and dryclean customers in town.

Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions about film plastic:-)