5 Things You Should Know About Drycleaning!

Its true! Care labels are wrong the majority of the time.

A recent online article from the UK tested 5 dryclean only garments and found that 4 of the 5 washed just fine. Check out that article here.

I could have told you that without all the time and effort. At our cleaners, well over 80% of items we process are washed or wetcleaned (wetcleaning is just a way of describing a extreme control of detergents and agitation during cleaning, similar to hand wash at home, if you know what you are doing).

So here are a few secrets you may not know about drycleaning: -

1. Care labels are often wrong. We often test clothes before cleaning to ensure care labels are correct. - 
2. Cashmere sweaters wash (hand wash) beautifully. We dryclean them because the water creates a time consuming requirement of blocking and drying flat. If you have the time, go for it. However washing cashmere well at home takes tender loving care, patience and a little practice. - 
3. Odor does not come out in drycleaning. Its true! If a drycleaner wants to remove an odor, they must wash it or use a textile deodorizer. So if you take a garment to the drycleaner with the hope that the odor will be removed – LET THEM KNOW. Your drycleaner should thank you for the information. They want you to be happy with the result. - 
4. Wash structured garments at your risk. In the article she washed a wool jacket. This is what we drycleaners call “structured garments.” I would never recommend washing that at home. 
5. There should be no dryclean odor in your clothes.  The only reason to air out your clothes after drycleaning is because the plastic is a petroleum product - DO NOT STORE YOUR CLOTHES IN DRYCLEAN PLASTIC! 

There was also little mention in the article regarding the finishing of the garments. Your drycleaner has very specialized equipment that can remove wrinkles, set finish and shape garments easily and quickly after cleaning. I wonder if she just got lucky with the items she chose – silk typically needs finishing (it is normally quite wrinkled after cleaning – even when line dried) and cashmere must be blocked and dried properly to minimize wrinkles and shrinkage.

So it comes down to How much time do you have? Where do you want to be spending your time? How much expertise to you have? (stain removal, pressing) How many items are you willing to risk? 

A good drycleaner is a trusted resource. We study stain removal, garment construction and fibers and weaves. The trick is to find a good drycleaner

What You Don't Know About Wrinkle Free Shirts

This is a guest post by Don Desrosiers of Tailwind Systems.

Ruth Benerito

The idea of wrinkle-free/ wrinkle-resistant cotton rings a bell to those who hate ironing those shirts all the time. After all, if cotton shirts can be made to resist those unwanted creases and wrinkles then why even bother with regular cotton? This is the very idea that early researchers and garment manufacturers were tinkering with when synthetic fabrics such as nylon were beginning to replace cotton. Cotton manufacturers had to find a way to market cotton as the favorable choice of fabric. During the 1950s and 60s, a chemist and researcher named Ruth Benerito, made notable accomplishments in producing easy-care cotton fabrics.  The good news was that garments made by this new process were wrinkle-resistant- it did not have to be ironed. The bad news was that this process required the use of formaldehyde- a harsh chemical often used for preserving dead animals and body parts and classified by the U.S Environmental Protection Agency as a probable carcinogen.

 There are generally five different methods used to produce wrinkle-free cotton: pre-cured fabric, post-cured fabric, dip-spin, spray method, and vapor phase. The main goal is to artificially swell the fabric by applying formaldehyde and heat so that instead of curling, the diameter of the fiber increases and makes it straight. While many of the issues associated with the use of formaldehyde in treating fabrics have been corrected through research during the past few years, and while the use of formaldehyde has been reduced, it has yet to be eliminated. Even the most popularly used resin, DMDHEU, which was meant to reduce the concentration of formaldehyde, is nevertheless a type of formaldehyde. In addition, wrinkle-free fabric has a reputation of being stiff and uncomfortable to wear. Many people also find that wrinkle-free garments still require some ironing due to the creases that form in some areas.  This is good news for drycleaners because it keeps them in the loop, at least to some extent.  Furthermore, for customers used to finely pressed cotton, an un-ironed “wrinkle-free” shirt, isn’t up to par.  This perhaps puts you, the consumer, in a disappointing place.  Wrinkle-free sounds like you might not need your drycleaner as much, but this doesn't turn out to be true.  

Many consumers fail to realize or simply do not care about the harsh and toxic chemicals that are being used in the products they use every day and researchers are still in the process of studying the long term health risks associated with being exposed to such chemicals. While society moved on to the 21st century, everything was manufactured and marketed to be fast and less time consuming. However, this sort of mindset comes with costs. While wrinkle-free means no more ironing, it also means a higher risk of health hazards associated with the toxins being used. Until researchers come up with more health-and-environmentally-friendly methods for producing wrinkle-free cotton, taking some time to iron those shirts don’t sound so bad after all.

 Natural Finish vs. Wrinkle Free Cotton

The best shirts are made from the finest 100% cotton, using Pima, Egyptian or other long staple cotton fiber. They will use a minimal amount of chemical finishes. The best quality shirts are not made of wrinkle free cotton. Aside from the potential health risks, the heavy use of chemical finishes that are necessary to achieve the performance, greatly diminishes the natural properties of cotton that have made it the fiber of choice in the better shirt world. These are facts that everyone buying shirts today should know.

Wrinkle free performance is achieved in 100% cotton by changing the cottons natural properties through the application of chemicals called resins. Most if not all of these resins contain formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is a toxic chemical with proven links to cancer. These resins coat the fabric and are actually baked onto the fiber. It is only of late that people have started to question the negative consequences of wearing apparel that has been so heavily treated with chemicals.

Government Study Regarding Health Risks

A recent study mandated by the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008 and prepared for the US Congress by the Government Accountability Office (GAO) indicates that the formaldehyde based resins used in wrinkle free cotton shirts may be hazardous to one’s health. Here are some highlights of the report issued in August of 2010:

The GAO specifically stated: “Some clothing – generally garments made of cotton and other natural fibers – is treated with resins containing formaldehyde primarily to enhance wrinkle resistance. Formaldehyde is toxic and has been linked to serious adverse health effects, including cancer, and some federal agencies have regulations that limit human exposure which occurs primarily through inhalation and dermal (skin) contact.”

Many countries limit the amount of formaldehyde that can be in apparel. Among them are Germany, France and Japan. For some reason, the US does not.

Japan has among the strictest limits, allowing no more than 75 parts per million for shirts.

The GAO study tested for formaldehyde levels in 166 apparel items randomly chosen throughout the US over various apparel classifications, from outerwear to sweaters to shirts.

9 items of the 166 tested exceeded the Japanese standard. Of those 9 items, 5 were marketed as being wrinkle free or resistant. The worst item was a wrinkle free cotton dress shirt that was almost 3 times the limit.

The GAO specifically stated: “More than half of the items we had tested that exceeded these limits were labeled as having fabric performance characteristics related to durable press (wrinkle free), which may indicate the use of resins that contain formaldehyde.”

The characteristics that have made cotton so popular in the better shirt world are greatly compromised by the vigorous processing required to achieve wrinkle or stain resistant finishes. The baked on coating of the resins actually changes the natural performance characteristics of the cotton fiber. Arguably, for all practical purposes the fabric is no longer cotton because breathability and absorbency are greatly diminished making the shirt far less comfortable and unable to defuse natural perspiration.

The process weakens the fabric, which makes it wear faster at cuffs, collars and elbows and makes it more susceptible to tearing at seams.  How many times have you seen that lately and assumed that it was your drycleaner's fault?

The appealing natural feel of the fabric is compromised. The coated fabric often has a slick, synthetic, sometimes harsh feel to it. Especially in warmer conditions.  Cotton doesn’t absorb a spill like it used to and you can’t dry your car with it anymore.  That’s because the cotton is coated and unnatural.

The vibrancy of color is diminished. The fabric is coated; therefore there is film over the fabric that diminished the vibrancy of the original colors.

Lastly, it should be further noted that wrinkle free shirts eventually lose their wrinkle free feature. The performance that is achieved when the garment is new diminishes over time and is usually entirely exhausted after 25-30 washings.

Wrinkle-free shirts may not be what you think they are.  Hopefully, you've been enlightened.  

Don Desrosiers has been in the laundry and drycleaning industry since 1978.  Desrosiers is a monthly columnist for The National Clothesline, Korean Cleaners Monthly, The Golomb Group Newsletter, NEFA’s Headlines and More and Australia’s The National Drycleaner and Launderer.   He is also a contributor for DLI’sFabricare Magazine and other regional industry publications.  He is a member of the Society of Professional Consultants and is the 2001 winner of IFI’s Commitment to Professionalism Award.  He is an occasional teacher at DLI, and a frequent speaker at industry gatherings where he lectures on Management Philosophy, Shirt Laundering, Business Management and Labor savings.  He has a corporate website at www.tailwindsystems.com and can be reached by telephone at 508.965.3163 and via email at tailwind.don@me.com.

                           The following is an newsletter provided to DLI members (the                              Drycleaning and Laundry Institute) Find out more about the DLI here: http://www.dlionline.org/

 

Just after the holiday season, retailers bet the bank that you’re not all shopped out. They want to draw you in with their after-Christmas sales, such as the white sales for bedspreads, comforters, sheets, and linens. Perhaps the impulse to redecorate your bedroom will draw you to their store or website.

A bedspread is an outer covering for a bed that goes over the sheets and blankets. It is usually a

decorative component of the bed set.

A comforter is a quilted bed cover. The cover consists of an outer face fabric, a center batting (usually a fiber mat or down), and a backing fabric. These three layers are held together with a stitched pattern or simulated stitching. The comforter may be used for decorative purposes, like a bedspread, or in place of a blanket.

Unlike clothing care labels, which provide instructions for how to properly care for the garments, the Federal Trade Commission’s Care Label Rule does not require permanent labels on home furnishing fabrics. Most bedspreads and comforters are sold with care instructions on a hang tag, a temporary label, or on the packaging.

 

Six Secrets to making your Household Textiles Last!

While we are clothing care experts, we also know a thing or two about household textiles, which, in addition to bedspreads and comforters, include draperies and curtains, blankets, upholstery, slipcovers, decorative pillows, rugs, and heirloom textiles.

To protect and prolong the beauty of your household textiles, remember these basic tips:

          1. Protect all furnishings from sunlight, fumes, and pets.

          2. Damage, like tears, should be repaired immediately.

          3. Vacuum and/or brush to remove dust regularly.

          4. Follow the cleaning recommendations.

          5. Do not allow the item to become extremely soiled, and have any stains removed immediately.

          6. Do not store household textiles that are not clean and stain-free.

One Final Note (Caution, a strong opinion is coming - from me - not the DLI)
Ditch the dust ruffle!  They act as filters and catch dust lint and debris.  Unless you clean them regularly, every other month, they are not clean.  They are difficult to remove, difficult to clean and they keep the dirt trapped right at your bed where you spend hours sleeping and resting.  In my opinion, they are a health hazard!

So You Think You are Paying Too Much at the DryCleaners . . .

I was at a party recently, and a friend of mine commented on how they stopped using our drycleaning service several times.  He felt we were too expensive.  However, each time he very quickly learned that price and value are very different things.

We are known as the most expensive cleaners in town (to which I could make an argument to the contrary. However, that would be another blog post).  I will say that with 4 generations of drycleaners behind us, the true question here is the discussion of PRICE vs. VALUE.

80% of the items we take care of at the cleaners, are items that our clients could clean and finish themselves, at home.  Silks, rayon and cashmere are all (usually) hand washable.  The majority of items we recieve are cotton items - shirts, blouses, dockers, sheets, tablecloths etc.

What is the difference between Value and Price?
ONE NOTE: Clothing is one of the best values we have right now!  The cost of that Kirkland sweater is likely the same price you should pay to clean it locally.  Offshore production and big box retailers have changed the consumer habits around retail items.  Our Nordstroms has dropped the St John Knit label and our Saks is now selling dresses for under $200!  
Unheard of value (and fodder for a future blog on the deterioration of quality in retail garments). 

Convenience

• What is your time worth to you.  We are all busy these days. As I get older, I notice that my time is becoming more and more valuable to me. We are all looking for ways to get more done in less time.

• If you currently do not use a drycleaning service, how much time do you spend cleaning items, and finishing them? I have yet to meet someone who can finish a man's cotton shirt in under 15 minutes (if you can - I would consider offering you a position!)

• How much time do you spend driving back and forth doing errands each day?  How many of those errands are actually necessary?  There are small ways to organize your life so you can enjoy more of what you like and experience less of what you don't.

A typical drive to the drycleaners is 10 minutes each way with 5 minutes in the shop - so just under 1/2 hour.  But you have to go twice; one to drop off and once to pick up.  That is about an hour of your time spent in the process.  What else could you be doing in that hour?

How much time do you spend doing laundry?  Folding, sorting, and then discovering that you missed a stain, or worse, your daughter somehow snuck a crayon in your load, or a lipstick, and all is ruined!

What if you could automate this task?  How much would it be worth?  I would reason that the time and gas money would make the service worth a minimum of $20 per week - and do you realize many fine cleaners offer this service at no additional charge? 

Peace of mind -  

• What is the result of your purchase?  Are you certain the work has a satisfaction guarantee?  That if anyone could get the stain out, or the pressing right, it was the person who is providing that service?  (that would include you)

• Does the finished product make you look good?  Is it clean, and wrinkle free - Showing your style and personality instead of a loose seam, discoloration or last weeks lunch?  Missing buttons are another standard problem - replacing a button can take longer than finishing a shirt!  Who has a needle and thread these days.

• What percentage had stains or other damage after cleaning that made them unusable?  Or more common these days, embellishments (like wood beads, sequins) that bled or were damaged?

• Drycleaned garments last longer.  Water is the most aggressive solvent there is, even more so than traditional drycleaning solvent.  Just look at the way the power of water formed the Grand Canyon!  More than 90% of items give up the farm during the cleaning process, it is the natural progression in the life of a garment.  But did you know that a drycleaned shirt will have a life at least twice as long as a hand washed shirt?  The colors will last better and with drycleaning you can clean more often to protect the garment from perspiration (a silk killer), sun damage, fume fading ect! 

• And when something does "die" is the problem addressed honestly and fairly?

This blog began as an explanation of why the right drycleaner is often a better choice even when they are a little more expensive than the alternative.  It is true - the cost of ruined clothing can be expensive AND (even more importantly) stressful. 

I also have clients that split their orders.  They send the cheap stuff to the cheap cleaner (who doesn't pick up and deliver) and save their favorite items for us to care for.  While I understand this, I often wonder how much effort it takes to manage and recall where all their items are.  Every week we take calls from people looking for clothes that we never received.  Often, we can locate the clothes by calling our competitors!

The right cleaner will save you time and money - both the kind you can quantify like I did above, and also in ways you will never know - because that's what we do.  We provide a convenient service that appears effortless to the consumer - that in reality takes experience and intense attention to detail.

So how do you find a great cleaner if you aren't lucky enough to live in Santa Barbara?  Well, quality knows quality. . . so ask at your quality retail stores and, of course, always ask you well dressed friends!


 

How often should you clean your suit?

Seems like a simple question. . .

As a rule of thumb – I recommend cleaning BOTH pieces no less than once a year,  EVEN if you did not wear the suit. 

I want to emphasize:  Just because you don’t get a stain doesn’t mean that you don’t need to clean a garment.  It helps to air out your clothes at night – ON A HANGER.  And steamers can do wonders – which is about the same thing those do at home dryclean kit do.  They are fine for a refresh – but please, for pants sake, clean them for real after a few wears or every year at a minimum.

Anytime you get a stain or spill on your clothes, clean your item.  Please refrain from trying to use water to remove stains.  And soda water is just water with bubbles – we call it dry-cleaning because it does not have water – water stains can be difficult to remove and can cause color loss.  Especially on dryclean only fabrics

Why should you clean something you’ve never worn or lightly worn? 

1) Sometimes our minds play tricks on us, or we just don’t notice things, remember things, or realize how much time has passed.  You may think you didn’t get any soils on your items, but you may not even know what was on that seat before you sat down. I don’t know about you, but I can’t even remember what I had for breakfast many days, let alone that small splash from the sink in the gas station restroom! How often do you wash your hands?  Your clothes are right up against your skin – they protect you as well as project who you are to the world.  Keep them clean!

2) Even without soils the fibers of your clothes can get matted down from wear.  Cleaning fluffs up the fibers and keeps clothes looking more like new.

I had a client come in complaining about a shine on his pants we had just cleaned.  We use a sophisticated identification method – so we can look up exactly when we have cleaned those pants over the last 10 years.  Those pants had not been cleaned in over a year and a half.  I asked him how often he wore his pants – at least twice a month; I asked if he had taken them somewhere else for cleaning – and he insisted we were the only cleaner.  I told him I would need to reclean the pants for a longer period in order to remove the ground in soils and also to fluff up the fibers.  That sort of wear really wears down the fibers and imbeds soil that are much more difficult to remove.  When you wear gabardine pants, just the fact of wearing then, the fibers get rubbed and any dust or fumes in the atmosphere will become embedded in the fibers.  Not cleaning cause these soils to permanently adhere – and one cleaning was not enough.  The cleaning can fluff up the fibers – but that much time requires – in this case – 2 cycles, just to fluff up the fibers.

3) Soils left in clothes for long periods of time damage clothes – and cause holes, wear and premature aging.  Perspiration is a known offender.  If it’s a little hot and you perspire onto your clothes, then leave them unclean; hanging in your closet, the fibers will become weak and the fabric will very likely tear.  *** I don’t like to clean any garment that hasn’t been cleaned in over 5 years.  And if they are visibly soiled and my client knows it has been that long since the last cleaning – I strongly discourage cleaning!  Soils grind into the fabric and damage it.  While its true the soils can attract insects that will also damage your clothes (and by the way – YUCK, you are wearing clothes that soils in the clothes are feeding tiny bug larva you can’t see!) , that is only a small part of the danger.  You can’t see the damage before cleaning because, quite literally, the soils are holding the fibers together (this is also true of feather pillows – clean those yearly or more often!)****

4) There are things in our atmosphere and our homes that can cause fume fading and other damage to our clothes if we never clean them – ALSO  It is a good exercise to go through all our clothes on AT LEAST a yearly basis.  I know, it’s a goal or a rule of thumb – not a hard fast must do.

5) some stains oxidize over time – think 7up or champagne.  Its clear when you spill it.  It dries like water – but give it 6 months, and some heat, it turns brown (like when you bite into an apple and set it aside).  At that point the stain is set and the fibers are at risk.

For a typical men’s suit, the jacket will often be removed for safekeeping.  Like when you get in the car, or driving.  At work when working alone, etc.  This is a normal and wise practice.  Suit coats are  what we call a “structured” garment.  That is, it has a lining, interfacing and material that gives the garment support it also often has bonding material (I really need to write about bonding material - manufacturers should be scolded for their use of it!).  The lining protects the garment from persperation and the fact that you often remove the jacket for driving, etc means that the shine is less likely.  Structured garments are more difficult to clean - they don’t like the agitation of the cleaning cycle – so it works that men normally wear their jackets less than pants.  Pants on the other hand often get worn more often than the corresponding jacket – and you sit on your pant, bend in them and just plain rub on them. . . .. Sorry but its true.  You are more likely to soil or spill on your pants – knowingly or by just sitting in something questionable.    So your pants, by their nature will need to be cleaned more often than your jacket.

Here’s a tip (in my humble opinion):  If you find a suit you love, BUY 2 PANTS!

OK, Ive gone on for longer than I meant – this was supposed to be short and sweet.

Seems that nothing is ever as simple as it would seem. . . but I hope you get my point.

Cleaning your clothes more frequently or regularly will 

            help your clothes last longer

            Will keep you healthier and feeling better

            Keep your clothes looking better

           

Thanks for listening, and hey, thanks for wearing clothes!

Guide to Knit Care

Living next to the ocean, there is often a crisp cool feel in the air and knits are popular here all year around.  Knit is a practical, yet stylish fabric that provides warmth, comfort, and durability; however, knit fabric has the potential to overstretch and distort if cared for improperly.

 

Purchasing

When purchasing knitwear, ask the sales representative for extra buttons. If the buttons fall off, it can be nearly impossible for the seamstress to find a perfect match, which can alter the appearance of the garment.

Unique Buttons

St John Knits is one of my favorite brands for knit wear.  Besides looking great, they have a spectacular repair facility in Irvine California.  I have had the opportunity to go there several times.  Odds are if you have any trouble at all with a St John Knit less than five years old, including missing buttons, they will take care of it for you!

Purchase knit separates together within the same season to ensure perfectly matched items. Dye lots can vary—often dramatically—from season to season.

Storing

Avoid hanging knits because gravity can distort the garment’s shape. Store knit folded in a drawer.  Always CLEAN items before storage.  Invisible stains can't be seen and may attract insects - which is where holes often begin!  If you had them drycleaned - there should be tissue in between the folds of the sweater.  This tissue should be left there during storage.  It will absorb out-gassing and help preserve your knits.  Also, for long term storage, try wrapping them in a clean white sheet or pillow case (not NEW sheets - wash sheets a couple times before using them for garment storage) to help them retain their shape and keep them clean.

After the winter, store knit garments in a cedar chest or in a cedar-lined closet to keep them fresh and free from insect damage.  Please do not put any garment in direct contact with the wood.  Resin or sap can cause discoloration and deterioration.

Beware the Care Label!

Beware of The FTC Care Label

In the US, garments are required to have a care label indicating a method of cleaning.  While most garment manufacturers take great pains to give you reasonable care label instructions, there is no law stating that the care label has to be correct.

That said, these are a few care label instructions where I would avoid buying an item if I saw it on the label:

• Spot Clean Only- this means the garment must be cleaned inch by inch, by hand! It is time consuming and costly. This instruction works best for a dark color garment and one that you plan on wearing only once on special occasion.

• Dry Clean Exclusive of Ornamentation- this means your cleaner must remove all the trim, buttons, bows and other ornaments BEFORE the garment is processed, and then sew them back on again. Another time intensive and expensive process, and at times, not even possible.

• Two Distinctly Different Label Instructions- if the care label on the garment’s lining calls for washing and there is another label on the face fabric that suggests dry cleaning, your cleaner will have to remove the lining in order to process in accordance with the Care Label instructions. You don’t want to know how much that would cost.

• DRYCLEAN ONLY. DO NOT TUMBLE. AIR DRY AT 100º it is virtually impossible for an environmentally friendly drycleaner to follow this instruction.

• And for men's shirts - avoid any thing that says cold water, or cool iron.

For those of you who want the details behind the FTC. . . here you go http://www.ftc.gov/os/statutes/textile/carelbl.shtm