So You Think You are Paying Too Much at the DryCleaners . . .

I was at a party recently, and a friend of mine commented on how they stopped using our drycleaning service several times.  He felt we were too expensive.  However, each time he very quickly learned that price and value are very different things.

We are known as the most expensive cleaners in town (to which I could make an argument to the contrary. However, that would be another blog post).  I will say that with 4 generations of drycleaners behind us, the true question here is the discussion of PRICE vs. VALUE.

80% of the items we take care of at the cleaners, are items that our clients could clean and finish themselves, at home.  Silks, rayon and cashmere are all (usually) hand washable.  The majority of items we recieve are cotton items - shirts, blouses, dockers, sheets, tablecloths etc.

What is the difference between Value and Price?
ONE NOTE: Clothing is one of the best values we have right now!  The cost of that Kirkland sweater is likely the same price you should pay to clean it locally.  Offshore production and big box retailers have changed the consumer habits around retail items.  Our Nordstroms has dropped the St John Knit label and our Saks is now selling dresses for under $200!  
Unheard of value (and fodder for a future blog on the deterioration of quality in retail garments). 

Convenience

• What is your time worth to you.  We are all busy these days. As I get older, I notice that my time is becoming more and more valuable to me. We are all looking for ways to get more done in less time.

• If you currently do not use a drycleaning service, how much time do you spend cleaning items, and finishing them? I have yet to meet someone who can finish a man's cotton shirt in under 15 minutes (if you can - I would consider offering you a position!)

• How much time do you spend driving back and forth doing errands each day?  How many of those errands are actually necessary?  There are small ways to organize your life so you can enjoy more of what you like and experience less of what you don't.

A typical drive to the drycleaners is 10 minutes each way with 5 minutes in the shop - so just under 1/2 hour.  But you have to go twice; one to drop off and once to pick up.  That is about an hour of your time spent in the process.  What else could you be doing in that hour?

How much time do you spend doing laundry?  Folding, sorting, and then discovering that you missed a stain, or worse, your daughter somehow snuck a crayon in your load, or a lipstick, and all is ruined!

What if you could automate this task?  How much would it be worth?  I would reason that the time and gas money would make the service worth a minimum of $20 per week - and do you realize many fine cleaners offer this service at no additional charge? 

Peace of mind -  

• What is the result of your purchase?  Are you certain the work has a satisfaction guarantee?  That if anyone could get the stain out, or the pressing right, it was the person who is providing that service?  (that would include you)

• Does the finished product make you look good?  Is it clean, and wrinkle free - Showing your style and personality instead of a loose seam, discoloration or last weeks lunch?  Missing buttons are another standard problem - replacing a button can take longer than finishing a shirt!  Who has a needle and thread these days.

• What percentage had stains or other damage after cleaning that made them unusable?  Or more common these days, embellishments (like wood beads, sequins) that bled or were damaged?

• Drycleaned garments last longer.  Water is the most aggressive solvent there is, even more so than traditional drycleaning solvent.  Just look at the way the power of water formed the Grand Canyon!  More than 90% of items give up the farm during the cleaning process, it is the natural progression in the life of a garment.  But did you know that a drycleaned shirt will have a life at least twice as long as a hand washed shirt?  The colors will last better and with drycleaning you can clean more often to protect the garment from perspiration (a silk killer), sun damage, fume fading ect! 

• And when something does "die" is the problem addressed honestly and fairly?

This blog began as an explanation of why the right drycleaner is often a better choice even when they are a little more expensive than the alternative.  It is true - the cost of ruined clothing can be expensive AND (even more importantly) stressful. 

I also have clients that split their orders.  They send the cheap stuff to the cheap cleaner (who doesn't pick up and deliver) and save their favorite items for us to care for.  While I understand this, I often wonder how much effort it takes to manage and recall where all their items are.  Every week we take calls from people looking for clothes that we never received.  Often, we can locate the clothes by calling our competitors!

The right cleaner will save you time and money - both the kind you can quantify like I did above, and also in ways you will never know - because that's what we do.  We provide a convenient service that appears effortless to the consumer - that in reality takes experience and intense attention to detail.

So how do you find a great cleaner if you aren't lucky enough to live in Santa Barbara?  Well, quality knows quality. . . so ask at your quality retail stores and, of course, always ask you well dressed friends!


 

How often should you clean your suit?

Seems like a simple question. . .

As a rule of thumb – I recommend cleaning BOTH pieces no less than once a year,  EVEN if you did not wear the suit. 

I want to emphasize:  Just because you don’t get a stain doesn’t mean that you don’t need to clean a garment.  It helps to air out your clothes at night – ON A HANGER.  And steamers can do wonders – which is about the same thing those do at home dryclean kit do.  They are fine for a refresh – but please, for pants sake, clean them for real after a few wears or every year at a minimum.

Anytime you get a stain or spill on your clothes, clean your item.  Please refrain from trying to use water to remove stains.  And soda water is just water with bubbles – we call it dry-cleaning because it does not have water – water stains can be difficult to remove and can cause color loss.  Especially on dryclean only fabrics

Why should you clean something you’ve never worn or lightly worn? 

1) Sometimes our minds play tricks on us, or we just don’t notice things, remember things, or realize how much time has passed.  You may think you didn’t get any soils on your items, but you may not even know what was on that seat before you sat down. I don’t know about you, but I can’t even remember what I had for breakfast many days, let alone that small splash from the sink in the gas station restroom! How often do you wash your hands?  Your clothes are right up against your skin – they protect you as well as project who you are to the world.  Keep them clean!

2) Even without soils the fibers of your clothes can get matted down from wear.  Cleaning fluffs up the fibers and keeps clothes looking more like new.

I had a client come in complaining about a shine on his pants we had just cleaned.  We use a sophisticated identification method – so we can look up exactly when we have cleaned those pants over the last 10 years.  Those pants had not been cleaned in over a year and a half.  I asked him how often he wore his pants – at least twice a month; I asked if he had taken them somewhere else for cleaning – and he insisted we were the only cleaner.  I told him I would need to reclean the pants for a longer period in order to remove the ground in soils and also to fluff up the fibers.  That sort of wear really wears down the fibers and imbeds soil that are much more difficult to remove.  When you wear gabardine pants, just the fact of wearing then, the fibers get rubbed and any dust or fumes in the atmosphere will become embedded in the fibers.  Not cleaning cause these soils to permanently adhere – and one cleaning was not enough.  The cleaning can fluff up the fibers – but that much time requires – in this case – 2 cycles, just to fluff up the fibers.

3) Soils left in clothes for long periods of time damage clothes – and cause holes, wear and premature aging.  Perspiration is a known offender.  If it’s a little hot and you perspire onto your clothes, then leave them unclean; hanging in your closet, the fibers will become weak and the fabric will very likely tear.  *** I don’t like to clean any garment that hasn’t been cleaned in over 5 years.  And if they are visibly soiled and my client knows it has been that long since the last cleaning – I strongly discourage cleaning!  Soils grind into the fabric and damage it.  While its true the soils can attract insects that will also damage your clothes (and by the way – YUCK, you are wearing clothes that soils in the clothes are feeding tiny bug larva you can’t see!) , that is only a small part of the danger.  You can’t see the damage before cleaning because, quite literally, the soils are holding the fibers together (this is also true of feather pillows – clean those yearly or more often!)****

4) There are things in our atmosphere and our homes that can cause fume fading and other damage to our clothes if we never clean them – ALSO  It is a good exercise to go through all our clothes on AT LEAST a yearly basis.  I know, it’s a goal or a rule of thumb – not a hard fast must do.

5) some stains oxidize over time – think 7up or champagne.  Its clear when you spill it.  It dries like water – but give it 6 months, and some heat, it turns brown (like when you bite into an apple and set it aside).  At that point the stain is set and the fibers are at risk.

For a typical men’s suit, the jacket will often be removed for safekeeping.  Like when you get in the car, or driving.  At work when working alone, etc.  This is a normal and wise practice.  Suit coats are  what we call a “structured” garment.  That is, it has a lining, interfacing and material that gives the garment support it also often has bonding material (I really need to write about bonding material - manufacturers should be scolded for their use of it!).  The lining protects the garment from persperation and the fact that you often remove the jacket for driving, etc means that the shine is less likely.  Structured garments are more difficult to clean - they don’t like the agitation of the cleaning cycle – so it works that men normally wear their jackets less than pants.  Pants on the other hand often get worn more often than the corresponding jacket – and you sit on your pant, bend in them and just plain rub on them. . . .. Sorry but its true.  You are more likely to soil or spill on your pants – knowingly or by just sitting in something questionable.    So your pants, by their nature will need to be cleaned more often than your jacket.

Here’s a tip (in my humble opinion):  If you find a suit you love, BUY 2 PANTS!

OK, Ive gone on for longer than I meant – this was supposed to be short and sweet.

Seems that nothing is ever as simple as it would seem. . . but I hope you get my point.

Cleaning your clothes more frequently or regularly will 

            help your clothes last longer

            Will keep you healthier and feeling better

            Keep your clothes looking better

           

Thanks for listening, and hey, thanks for wearing clothes!

Guide to Knit Care

Living next to the ocean, there is often a crisp cool feel in the air and knits are popular here all year around.  Knit is a practical, yet stylish fabric that provides warmth, comfort, and durability; however, knit fabric has the potential to overstretch and distort if cared for improperly.

 

Purchasing

When purchasing knitwear, ask the sales representative for extra buttons. If the buttons fall off, it can be nearly impossible for the seamstress to find a perfect match, which can alter the appearance of the garment.

Unique Buttons

St John Knits is one of my favorite brands for knit wear.  Besides looking great, they have a spectacular repair facility in Irvine California.  I have had the opportunity to go there several times.  Odds are if you have any trouble at all with a St John Knit less than five years old, including missing buttons, they will take care of it for you!

Purchase knit separates together within the same season to ensure perfectly matched items. Dye lots can vary—often dramatically—from season to season.

Storing

Avoid hanging knits because gravity can distort the garment’s shape. Store knit folded in a drawer.  Always CLEAN items before storage.  Invisible stains can't be seen and may attract insects - which is where holes often begin!  If you had them drycleaned - there should be tissue in between the folds of the sweater.  This tissue should be left there during storage.  It will absorb out-gassing and help preserve your knits.  Also, for long term storage, try wrapping them in a clean white sheet or pillow case (not NEW sheets - wash sheets a couple times before using them for garment storage) to help them retain their shape and keep them clean.

After the winter, store knit garments in a cedar chest or in a cedar-lined closet to keep them fresh and free from insect damage.  Please do not put any garment in direct contact with the wood.  Resin or sap can cause discoloration and deterioration.

Beware the Care Label!

Beware of The FTC Care Label

In the US, garments are required to have a care label indicating a method of cleaning.  While most garment manufacturers take great pains to give you reasonable care label instructions, there is no law stating that the care label has to be correct.

That said, these are a few care label instructions where I would avoid buying an item if I saw it on the label:

• Spot Clean Only- this means the garment must be cleaned inch by inch, by hand! It is time consuming and costly. This instruction works best for a dark color garment and one that you plan on wearing only once on special occasion.

• Dry Clean Exclusive of Ornamentation- this means your cleaner must remove all the trim, buttons, bows and other ornaments BEFORE the garment is processed, and then sew them back on again. Another time intensive and expensive process, and at times, not even possible.

• Two Distinctly Different Label Instructions- if the care label on the garment’s lining calls for washing and there is another label on the face fabric that suggests dry cleaning, your cleaner will have to remove the lining in order to process in accordance with the Care Label instructions. You don’t want to know how much that would cost.

• DRYCLEAN ONLY. DO NOT TUMBLE. AIR DRY AT 100º it is virtually impossible for an environmentally friendly drycleaner to follow this instruction.

• And for men's shirts - avoid any thing that says cold water, or cool iron.

For those of you who want the details behind the FTC. . . here you go http://www.ftc.gov/os/statutes/textile/carelbl.shtm

Comparing Dry Cleaners: Price Does Not Equal Cost

I just read this fabulous article by my friends at Bibentucker and had to share!
Choosing the wrong cleaner can be costly.  And not just in money. The time wasted, frustration and even emotional drain caused by some cleaners is not something I want you to experience.

 Choose your cleaner carefully.  And here are some tips on how to do it:

http://www.bibbentuckers.com/articles/dry-cleaning-pricing

How Long Does it Take for a Stain to Set?

So you are out to dinner with friends the day before a trip.  

You look great in your favorite creme crepe silk blouse.  

Then the unthinkable!

So the question is, how long can safely you wait to take it to your trusted cleaners?  Or . . . would you be better off to pack it and take it to an unknown cleaners at (gasp) the hotel where you are staying rather than let it set?

The answer to this question is the same as the answer to so many questions.  The unsatisfying "It Depends. . . "

The good news is it probably isn't as urgent as many people believe.

It takes anywhere from 4-6 months before sugar stain caramelize.  Think about biting into an apple, the apple turns brown due to the sugar oxidizing when exposed to oxygen.  The same happens when you spill clear soda, juice, white wine on your clothes.  It dries clear.  However, if not removed it will take several months for the stain to turn brown.  And once it does, it will be VERY hard to remove, if not impossible.  Oil stains (body oil, butter, grease) can also oxidize and they are even more difficult to remove that oxidized sugar stains.

So the question is, How Long Can You Safely Wait?

I always recommend that you clean a garment as quickly as possible.  However, stains don't set immediately.

Specific Tips:

• Try not to put water on the stain at the scene of a stain.  Do not put water on any stain if you don't plan on finishing the job.  Almost getting a stain out can be worse than not doing anything.  Blot don't rub, and avoid using water unless you are prepared to finish the job.  This is especially true with blood and wine.  As for ink - please don't ever put water on ink.  It will set it immediately.

• Leaving your clothes in the car.   The heat that can build up in a car can cook your clothes and set a stain in the matter of an hour.  Once that is done, your clothes may be done for.

• Taking a cotton shirt off after sweating and leaving it in your closet for a week.  I see this from guys again and again.  Men (sorry for the generalization guys, I do love you) finish a hard days work with out noticing they had been perspiring.  they leave their shirts in the back of the closet for over a week.  Perspiration creates a chemical reaction and weakens the fibers quickly.  Especially a natural fiber such as cotton or silk.  When the shirt is cleaned, the shirt tears. . . typically in the area where the shirt came in contact with the person, the underarm or the back. 

In closing, I believe you will be better off waiting (storing the clothes in a cool place with little sunlight), than taking any prized item to an unknown cleaners.  Dry Cleaners are not all made equally.  There are no requirements that make someone qualified to be a cleaner.  And because cleaners are so dependent on humans (it is more of an art than a science), a cleaners reputation and history will be key!