Fashion, your health and the environment

Google drycleaner and you will likely get a lot of information on Environmentally friendly drycleaners.  Eco Cleaners love to tout their stuff and warn of the dangers to health of using the traditional perc drycleaning solvent.  I am glad that awareness growing about the importance of choosing a responsible drycleaner.  It is true that perc fumes have been proven to be carcinogenic.  But the solvent is not all you need to think about.

Most of us are unaware of the dangers of many clothes we buy.
When you are shopping for clothes, your choices effect your health, your families health, and the health of planet earth.

What is my biggest concern? They are calling it fast fashion. . . and this trend worries me

14 million tons of clothing go into landfills in the us every day.

Then there are the chemicals that cant be good for our health or the planet:
polyester is plastic - its can last forever in a land fill
There is a reason we don't make these clothes here - these toxic chemicals are banned in the US
the chemicals used to acid wash or fade jeans is toxic

their are optical brighteners used on white clothes that are toxic and often wash out quickly.  So the clothes look old after just a few cleanings

there are coatings sprayed onto clothes to give them added body and sparkle - it is often toxic.
 --- One quick tip, wash your sheets with detergent then do an additional rinse before putting them on your bed the first time!  Wrinkle free coatings at one time were formaldehyde (I was told by someone in the industry that this is no longer true. However since it was never admitted, how can I confirm that? I recommend not buying any wrinkle free clothing).

These chemicals wash out of our clothes over time. Drycleaners cannot replace these optical brighteners and other textile chemicals back into your clothes because these chemicals are illegal in the US.   However other countries that manufacture using these same chemicals and using questionable social practices are booming. Look at the online clothing industry.  These clothes are cheaply made and intended for only a few uses.  The fashion cycle which used to be seasonal has been shrunk to only a few weeks!

Cashmere made in china has very short fibers and pills almost instantly.  The life of a sweater made that way is very short.  They tend to look old and worn after just one cleaning

The Silk made in china is not really silk.  Im not sure what it is.  I need to research it further but I know from experience cleaning it - it does not wear the way Italian or Traditional silk does.  it looses luster, fades and snags in a way that reduces its usefulness

In short - these are disposable clothes that are treated with toxic chemicals

There is also a social component here.  When you buy that $5 shirt or $12 dress.  It is likely that those items have circled the globe at least once using considerable fuels during its travels.

I make the joke that these disposable clothes are made by underaged under paid children in China. . . . and I worry that it is true. There is a reason that a sweater made by hand in America will cost hundreds of dollars while an H&M sweater is only $10.  I don't know that its true, but now I think I need to find out before I shop there again.

I am not an expert in this area, however I am trying to educate myself because I believe we all have the power to influence the world by making intentional choices when shopping.

You have the choice to buy a few better made pieces that will look great, clean great and last longer.  Buying American, and not buying into this disposable mindset, is a small yet powerful step towards a better world. Knowledge is power! It is my hope that people become more aware and intentional in their clothing choices.

Thanks for listening - Sasha

Six Secrets to Keep your Clothes Stain Free!

First - NEVER, EVER, RUB A STAIN OR SPILL 

Rubbing stains, grinds soils into the fibers of your garment AND because rubbing acts like sand paper, rubbing will likely cut fibers in your garment and cause 1) de-lustering (which looks like a stain, but is actually fabric damage because the material is no longer reflecting light like the rest of the garment) and/or 2) it can cause color loss.  I know its hard, but please refrain from rubbing any stain or spill if you want to prolong the life of your garment.  This is especially true of silks and satins.  AND alcohol can easily remove the dyes from silk items - so BOT, BLOT, BLOT until your beverage stain is gone!

TIP: Men, take off your tie before eating. Or at least throw it over your shoulder!
Another TIP: NEVER put water (including club soda) on a silk anything to remove a spill.  It will make it harder for your drycleaner to fix the garment in the end!  

The best thing you can do any time you spill anything on your clothes is to BLOT up the excess soil/liquid with a clean, lint-free, light colored cloth

Second - treat your stains promptly

Mom was right (isn't she always?). Fresh stains are easier and more likely to be removed.  Less well known is the physical and chemical damage that can be done by leaving stains in your clothes.  When some stains (alcohol, sugar water and perspiration to name a few) are left in clothes they can weaken fibers causing your garments more likely to tear, or start holes.  The can also cause a chemical reaction that damages the dyes causing color loss.  Also, soils left in clothes will attract insects which, besides being gross, will eat holes in your clothes and then destroy any wool items in your closet. 
Also keep in mind, that if its hot, or you leave soiled garments in a car, the heat will effectively cook your clothes and set stains in a matter of 15 minutes!  Another reason you should find a cleaner that picks up and delivers!

Third - If your item is Dryclean Only - take it to your drycleaner and ignore the rest of this post

If you have a silk blouse or acetate dress or any other item with a "DryClean Only" care label, STOP HERE and take your items to your favorite drycleaner.  You will know if your item is dryclean only if there is a circle symbol on the care label like this

Disclaimer: The following information is ONLY for items that can be safely laundered

Fourth - Carry a stain stick with you  

Like the third rule says, treat you stains promptly.  Carry a stain stick in your purse, and your car. They are cheap and easy to tuck into your purse, glovebox or desk.  I personally like the Clorox and Tide sticks the best.

Fifth - work the stain from the "wrong side"

If you are going to "work" a stain before you put it into the laundry, use this drycleaner trick; Flush the stain from the backside first.  Its easier to "push" the stain off the surface of material, rather than force it to travel through the material. Another way to say this is to "lift" the stain off the material.

Lastly - For greasy stains

For a lot of grease (pizza anyone?) put a little dishwashing detergent in with your load.  Be sure the water is already filling your basket,  You want the water and detergent to mix (dilute) before adding your clothes.  You may apply this de-greaser directly to clothes, but FIRST you will need to dilute it considerably with water.  I love Dawn, however I would never apply a colored anything to clothes directly.  I always dilute any product with water before adding clothes.

As for specific stain removal tips (mustard, grass, etc.), I ran across this fabulous article by the University of Nebraska:  http://lancaster.unl.edu/home/articles/2002/summerstain.shtml.
It was written in 2002, but the tips are as true today as they were then.
As a drycleaner, because I have access to all sorts of stain removal chemicals the average person cannot get, I did not try these stain removal techniques, and their effectiveness is up to you to determine.  I would love to hear your favorite home stain removal techniques!

Nothing last forever; How long should your comforter last?

I just received and email from the Drycleaning&Laundry Institute.
You can read about the DLI here: http://www.dlionline.org/Drycleaners

As I looked at their analysis of the life of house hold items (comforters, drapes, etc - you can review their chart below) I knew that the average consumer of drycleaning services would not agree with the average life expectancies the DLI publish.

The DLI compiles this data for their drycleaner members, as they should, because better than 95% of textiles that are past their life, die during the cleaning process.  Textile damage is often hard to spot before cleaning, and the drycleaner is not usually told the story of the items in their care.  Alas, sometimes the drycleaner is left holding the bag, after the fact, to an unhappy and frustrated customer.

As I thought about it, I realized it was a question of averages; some things wear out after one use, some last over 10 years.  I have towels for well over 5 years that look great.  My Thanksgiving tablecloth has been in the family for 2 generations and my drapes are over 20 years old (I hesitated to share that with you - I don't think that is a good idea and I have just put it on my list to replace them!).  However I also have t-shirts that have holes after one washing (I can explain why that happens, but it is not the content of this story).

In my case I clean all items right after use, even if they don't appear dirty AND their use is limited.   Heavy use, means heavier wear.  And I have the understanding of exactly what forces are at work on my household textiles.

The challenge with trying to put a timetable to the life of a textile is that a brand new tablecloth, even if it is well made, could be used and then stored without cleaning, and when it gets pulled out the following year - aged stains, or even holes may have destroyed it.

My favorite example of unexpected wear in a household item is a down comforter.  I have had clients bring in a comforter for cleaning.  I always recommend washing down comforters in water.  Every once in a while (writing this I realize its been years since Ive had this complaint, so I had better prepare for it) The comforter will lose 20%, 50% or more of the down on cleaning!  What happened?  Typically it is an older comforter (over 5 years) and it had been put away in storage.  I think in the extreme cases it may have been slightly damp during storage and the down deteriorated over time.  When the item was cleaned, all that loose down dissolved and was washed away.  Under poor conditions, that comforter could be destroyed after only a year.

My point?  It is impossible to know how long something will last - but these averages should make you feel good about your things if they are lasting longer.

My father once told a client who's item had torn during cleaning (turns out it was over 7 years old), that the value of the item depreciates similar to an asset.  She had worn the item for years and had gotten pleasure, utility out of that use.

In line with that analogy, I suggest, that the next time you have a textile (clothes or comforter) last longer than the life expectancy, appreciate the extra time and be aware that nothing lasts forever!

Think of it this way: your $1000 custom bed set is really costing you $200 a year, and after 5 years, its all gravy:-)


DLI Vol 28:
Life Expectancy of Household Items

The American National Standards Institute, Inc. approved the Fair Claims Guide for Consumer Textile Products. This standard provides the guidelines for determining liability for claims adjustment purposes for textile products. It also includes the following life expectancy chart for household textile items: 

Life Expectancy Table
Item	Years
Bedspreads	six years
Blankets
Heavy Wool and Synthetic Fibers	10 years
Lightweight	five years
Electric	five years
Comforters	five years
Down	five years
Curtains
Sheer	three years
Glass Fiber	three years
Draperies
Lined	five years
Unlined	four years
Sheer	three years
Glass Fiber	four years
Sheets and Pillow Cases	two years
Slipcovers	three years
Table Linen
Fancy	five years
Other	two years
Towels	three years
Upholstery Fabrics	five years
Articles Coated or Flocked	two years

How long the items last also depends on selection. Consider the following before purchasing a household product:

• Will the material be durable?
• Will the fabric resist stains and soil?
• Are there any protective coatings of finishes available that will prolong the useful life of the textile?
• Is the fabric preshrunk?
• Is the fabric resistant to light, fading or pollution?
• Do any care instructions come with the purchase? Read all instructions or information before buying the item.

Proper care will always help prolong the beauty of the household textile. Here are some basic rules to protect and prolong the beauty of household textiles:

• Protect all furnishings from sunlight, fumes, and pets.
• Damage, like tears, should be repaired immediately.
• Vacuum and/or brush to remove dust regularly.
• Follow the manufacturer's cleaning recommendations.
• Do not allow the item to become extremely soiled, and have any stains removed immediately.
• Clean household textiles before storing.

5 Things You Should Know About Drycleaning!

Its true! Care labels are wrong the majority of the time.

A recent online article from the UK tested 5 dryclean only garments and found that 4 of the 5 washed just fine. Check out that article here.

I could have told you that without all the time and effort. At our cleaners, well over 80% of items we process are washed or wetcleaned (wetcleaning is just a way of describing a extreme control of detergents and agitation during cleaning, similar to hand wash at home, if you know what you are doing).

So here are a few secrets you may not know about drycleaning: -

1. Care labels are often wrong. We often test clothes before cleaning to ensure care labels are correct. - 
2. Cashmere sweaters wash (hand wash) beautifully. We dryclean them because the water creates a time consuming requirement of blocking and drying flat. If you have the time, go for it. However washing cashmere well at home takes tender loving care, patience and a little practice. - 
3. Odor does not come out in drycleaning. Its true! If a drycleaner wants to remove an odor, they must wash it or use a textile deodorizer. So if you take a garment to the drycleaner with the hope that the odor will be removed – LET THEM KNOW. Your drycleaner should thank you for the information. They want you to be happy with the result. - 
4. Wash structured garments at your risk. In the article she washed a wool jacket. This is what we drycleaners call “structured garments.” I would never recommend washing that at home. 
5. There should be no dryclean odor in your clothes.  The only reason to air out your clothes after drycleaning is because the plastic is a petroleum product - DO NOT STORE YOUR CLOTHES IN DRYCLEAN PLASTIC! 

There was also little mention in the article regarding the finishing of the garments. Your drycleaner has very specialized equipment that can remove wrinkles, set finish and shape garments easily and quickly after cleaning. I wonder if she just got lucky with the items she chose – silk typically needs finishing (it is normally quite wrinkled after cleaning – even when line dried) and cashmere must be blocked and dried properly to minimize wrinkles and shrinkage.

So it comes down to How much time do you have? Where do you want to be spending your time? How much expertise to you have? (stain removal, pressing) How many items are you willing to risk? 

A good drycleaner is a trusted resource. We study stain removal, garment construction and fibers and weaves. The trick is to find a good drycleaner

What You Don't Know About Wrinkle Free Shirts

This is a guest post by Don Desrosiers of Tailwind Systems.

Ruth Benerito

The idea of wrinkle-free/ wrinkle-resistant cotton rings a bell to those who hate ironing those shirts all the time. After all, if cotton shirts can be made to resist those unwanted creases and wrinkles then why even bother with regular cotton? This is the very idea that early researchers and garment manufacturers were tinkering with when synthetic fabrics such as nylon were beginning to replace cotton. Cotton manufacturers had to find a way to market cotton as the favorable choice of fabric. During the 1950s and 60s, a chemist and researcher named Ruth Benerito, made notable accomplishments in producing easy-care cotton fabrics.  The good news was that garments made by this new process were wrinkle-resistant- it did not have to be ironed. The bad news was that this process required the use of formaldehyde- a harsh chemical often used for preserving dead animals and body parts and classified by the U.S Environmental Protection Agency as a probable carcinogen.

 There are generally five different methods used to produce wrinkle-free cotton: pre-cured fabric, post-cured fabric, dip-spin, spray method, and vapor phase. The main goal is to artificially swell the fabric by applying formaldehyde and heat so that instead of curling, the diameter of the fiber increases and makes it straight. While many of the issues associated with the use of formaldehyde in treating fabrics have been corrected through research during the past few years, and while the use of formaldehyde has been reduced, it has yet to be eliminated. Even the most popularly used resin, DMDHEU, which was meant to reduce the concentration of formaldehyde, is nevertheless a type of formaldehyde. In addition, wrinkle-free fabric has a reputation of being stiff and uncomfortable to wear. Many people also find that wrinkle-free garments still require some ironing due to the creases that form in some areas.  This is good news for drycleaners because it keeps them in the loop, at least to some extent.  Furthermore, for customers used to finely pressed cotton, an un-ironed “wrinkle-free” shirt, isn’t up to par.  This perhaps puts you, the consumer, in a disappointing place.  Wrinkle-free sounds like you might not need your drycleaner as much, but this doesn't turn out to be true.  

Many consumers fail to realize or simply do not care about the harsh and toxic chemicals that are being used in the products they use every day and researchers are still in the process of studying the long term health risks associated with being exposed to such chemicals. While society moved on to the 21st century, everything was manufactured and marketed to be fast and less time consuming. However, this sort of mindset comes with costs. While wrinkle-free means no more ironing, it also means a higher risk of health hazards associated with the toxins being used. Until researchers come up with more health-and-environmentally-friendly methods for producing wrinkle-free cotton, taking some time to iron those shirts don’t sound so bad after all.

 Natural Finish vs. Wrinkle Free Cotton

The best shirts are made from the finest 100% cotton, using Pima, Egyptian or other long staple cotton fiber. They will use a minimal amount of chemical finishes. The best quality shirts are not made of wrinkle free cotton. Aside from the potential health risks, the heavy use of chemical finishes that are necessary to achieve the performance, greatly diminishes the natural properties of cotton that have made it the fiber of choice in the better shirt world. These are facts that everyone buying shirts today should know.

Wrinkle free performance is achieved in 100% cotton by changing the cottons natural properties through the application of chemicals called resins. Most if not all of these resins contain formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is a toxic chemical with proven links to cancer. These resins coat the fabric and are actually baked onto the fiber. It is only of late that people have started to question the negative consequences of wearing apparel that has been so heavily treated with chemicals.

Government Study Regarding Health Risks

A recent study mandated by the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008 and prepared for the US Congress by the Government Accountability Office (GAO) indicates that the formaldehyde based resins used in wrinkle free cotton shirts may be hazardous to one’s health. Here are some highlights of the report issued in August of 2010:

The GAO specifically stated: “Some clothing – generally garments made of cotton and other natural fibers – is treated with resins containing formaldehyde primarily to enhance wrinkle resistance. Formaldehyde is toxic and has been linked to serious adverse health effects, including cancer, and some federal agencies have regulations that limit human exposure which occurs primarily through inhalation and dermal (skin) contact.”

Many countries limit the amount of formaldehyde that can be in apparel. Among them are Germany, France and Japan. For some reason, the US does not.

Japan has among the strictest limits, allowing no more than 75 parts per million for shirts.

The GAO study tested for formaldehyde levels in 166 apparel items randomly chosen throughout the US over various apparel classifications, from outerwear to sweaters to shirts.

9 items of the 166 tested exceeded the Japanese standard. Of those 9 items, 5 were marketed as being wrinkle free or resistant. The worst item was a wrinkle free cotton dress shirt that was almost 3 times the limit.

The GAO specifically stated: “More than half of the items we had tested that exceeded these limits were labeled as having fabric performance characteristics related to durable press (wrinkle free), which may indicate the use of resins that contain formaldehyde.”

The characteristics that have made cotton so popular in the better shirt world are greatly compromised by the vigorous processing required to achieve wrinkle or stain resistant finishes. The baked on coating of the resins actually changes the natural performance characteristics of the cotton fiber. Arguably, for all practical purposes the fabric is no longer cotton because breathability and absorbency are greatly diminished making the shirt far less comfortable and unable to defuse natural perspiration.

The process weakens the fabric, which makes it wear faster at cuffs, collars and elbows and makes it more susceptible to tearing at seams.  How many times have you seen that lately and assumed that it was your drycleaner's fault?

The appealing natural feel of the fabric is compromised. The coated fabric often has a slick, synthetic, sometimes harsh feel to it. Especially in warmer conditions.  Cotton doesn’t absorb a spill like it used to and you can’t dry your car with it anymore.  That’s because the cotton is coated and unnatural.

The vibrancy of color is diminished. The fabric is coated; therefore there is film over the fabric that diminished the vibrancy of the original colors.

Lastly, it should be further noted that wrinkle free shirts eventually lose their wrinkle free feature. The performance that is achieved when the garment is new diminishes over time and is usually entirely exhausted after 25-30 washings.

Wrinkle-free shirts may not be what you think they are.  Hopefully, you've been enlightened.  

Don Desrosiers has been in the laundry and drycleaning industry since 1978.  Desrosiers is a monthly columnist for The National Clothesline, Korean Cleaners Monthly, The Golomb Group Newsletter, NEFA’s Headlines and More and Australia’s The National Drycleaner and Launderer.   He is also a contributor for DLI’sFabricare Magazine and other regional industry publications.  He is a member of the Society of Professional Consultants and is the 2001 winner of IFI’s Commitment to Professionalism Award.  He is an occasional teacher at DLI, and a frequent speaker at industry gatherings where he lectures on Management Philosophy, Shirt Laundering, Business Management and Labor savings.  He has a corporate website at www.tailwindsystems.com and can be reached by telephone at 508.965.3163 and via email at tailwind.don@me.com.

How often should you clean your suit?

Seems like a simple question. . .

As a rule of thumb – I recommend cleaning BOTH pieces no less than once a year,  EVEN if you did not wear the suit. 

I want to emphasize:  Just because you don’t get a stain doesn’t mean that you don’t need to clean a garment.  It helps to air out your clothes at night – ON A HANGER.  And steamers can do wonders – which is about the same thing those do at home dryclean kit do.  They are fine for a refresh – but please, for pants sake, clean them for real after a few wears or every year at a minimum.

Anytime you get a stain or spill on your clothes, clean your item.  Please refrain from trying to use water to remove stains.  And soda water is just water with bubbles – we call it dry-cleaning because it does not have water – water stains can be difficult to remove and can cause color loss.  Especially on dryclean only fabrics

Why should you clean something you’ve never worn or lightly worn? 

1) Sometimes our minds play tricks on us, or we just don’t notice things, remember things, or realize how much time has passed.  You may think you didn’t get any soils on your items, but you may not even know what was on that seat before you sat down. I don’t know about you, but I can’t even remember what I had for breakfast many days, let alone that small splash from the sink in the gas station restroom! How often do you wash your hands?  Your clothes are right up against your skin – they protect you as well as project who you are to the world.  Keep them clean!

2) Even without soils the fibers of your clothes can get matted down from wear.  Cleaning fluffs up the fibers and keeps clothes looking more like new.

I had a client come in complaining about a shine on his pants we had just cleaned.  We use a sophisticated identification method – so we can look up exactly when we have cleaned those pants over the last 10 years.  Those pants had not been cleaned in over a year and a half.  I asked him how often he wore his pants – at least twice a month; I asked if he had taken them somewhere else for cleaning – and he insisted we were the only cleaner.  I told him I would need to reclean the pants for a longer period in order to remove the ground in soils and also to fluff up the fibers.  That sort of wear really wears down the fibers and imbeds soil that are much more difficult to remove.  When you wear gabardine pants, just the fact of wearing then, the fibers get rubbed and any dust or fumes in the atmosphere will become embedded in the fibers.  Not cleaning cause these soils to permanently adhere – and one cleaning was not enough.  The cleaning can fluff up the fibers – but that much time requires – in this case – 2 cycles, just to fluff up the fibers.

3) Soils left in clothes for long periods of time damage clothes – and cause holes, wear and premature aging.  Perspiration is a known offender.  If it’s a little hot and you perspire onto your clothes, then leave them unclean; hanging in your closet, the fibers will become weak and the fabric will very likely tear.  *** I don’t like to clean any garment that hasn’t been cleaned in over 5 years.  And if they are visibly soiled and my client knows it has been that long since the last cleaning – I strongly discourage cleaning!  Soils grind into the fabric and damage it.  While its true the soils can attract insects that will also damage your clothes (and by the way – YUCK, you are wearing clothes that soils in the clothes are feeding tiny bug larva you can’t see!) , that is only a small part of the danger.  You can’t see the damage before cleaning because, quite literally, the soils are holding the fibers together (this is also true of feather pillows – clean those yearly or more often!)****

4) There are things in our atmosphere and our homes that can cause fume fading and other damage to our clothes if we never clean them – ALSO  It is a good exercise to go through all our clothes on AT LEAST a yearly basis.  I know, it’s a goal or a rule of thumb – not a hard fast must do.

5) some stains oxidize over time – think 7up or champagne.  Its clear when you spill it.  It dries like water – but give it 6 months, and some heat, it turns brown (like when you bite into an apple and set it aside).  At that point the stain is set and the fibers are at risk.

For a typical men’s suit, the jacket will often be removed for safekeeping.  Like when you get in the car, or driving.  At work when working alone, etc.  This is a normal and wise practice.  Suit coats are  what we call a “structured” garment.  That is, it has a lining, interfacing and material that gives the garment support it also often has bonding material (I really need to write about bonding material - manufacturers should be scolded for their use of it!).  The lining protects the garment from persperation and the fact that you often remove the jacket for driving, etc means that the shine is less likely.  Structured garments are more difficult to clean - they don’t like the agitation of the cleaning cycle – so it works that men normally wear their jackets less than pants.  Pants on the other hand often get worn more often than the corresponding jacket – and you sit on your pant, bend in them and just plain rub on them. . . .. Sorry but its true.  You are more likely to soil or spill on your pants – knowingly or by just sitting in something questionable.    So your pants, by their nature will need to be cleaned more often than your jacket.

Here’s a tip (in my humble opinion):  If you find a suit you love, BUY 2 PANTS!

OK, Ive gone on for longer than I meant – this was supposed to be short and sweet.

Seems that nothing is ever as simple as it would seem. . . but I hope you get my point.

Cleaning your clothes more frequently or regularly will 

            help your clothes last longer

            Will keep you healthier and feeling better

            Keep your clothes looking better

           

Thanks for listening, and hey, thanks for wearing clothes!

Guide to Knit Care

Living next to the ocean, there is often a crisp cool feel in the air and knits are popular here all year around.  Knit is a practical, yet stylish fabric that provides warmth, comfort, and durability; however, knit fabric has the potential to overstretch and distort if cared for improperly.

 

Purchasing

When purchasing knitwear, ask the sales representative for extra buttons. If the buttons fall off, it can be nearly impossible for the seamstress to find a perfect match, which can alter the appearance of the garment.

Unique Buttons

St John Knits is one of my favorite brands for knit wear.  Besides looking great, they have a spectacular repair facility in Irvine California.  I have had the opportunity to go there several times.  Odds are if you have any trouble at all with a St John Knit less than five years old, including missing buttons, they will take care of it for you!

Purchase knit separates together within the same season to ensure perfectly matched items. Dye lots can vary—often dramatically—from season to season.

Storing

Avoid hanging knits because gravity can distort the garment’s shape. Store knit folded in a drawer.  Always CLEAN items before storage.  Invisible stains can't be seen and may attract insects - which is where holes often begin!  If you had them drycleaned - there should be tissue in between the folds of the sweater.  This tissue should be left there during storage.  It will absorb out-gassing and help preserve your knits.  Also, for long term storage, try wrapping them in a clean white sheet or pillow case (not NEW sheets - wash sheets a couple times before using them for garment storage) to help them retain their shape and keep them clean.

After the winter, store knit garments in a cedar chest or in a cedar-lined closet to keep them fresh and free from insect damage.  Please do not put any garment in direct contact with the wood.  Resin or sap can cause discoloration and deterioration.

How Long Does it Take for a Stain to Set?

So you are out to dinner with friends the day before a trip.  

You look great in your favorite creme crepe silk blouse.  

Then the unthinkable!

So the question is, how long can safely you wait to take it to your trusted cleaners?  Or . . . would you be better off to pack it and take it to an unknown cleaners at (gasp) the hotel where you are staying rather than let it set?

The answer to this question is the same as the answer to so many questions.  The unsatisfying "It Depends. . . "

The good news is it probably isn't as urgent as many people believe.

It takes anywhere from 4-6 months before sugar stain caramelize.  Think about biting into an apple, the apple turns brown due to the sugar oxidizing when exposed to oxygen.  The same happens when you spill clear soda, juice, white wine on your clothes.  It dries clear.  However, if not removed it will take several months for the stain to turn brown.  And once it does, it will be VERY hard to remove, if not impossible.  Oil stains (body oil, butter, grease) can also oxidize and they are even more difficult to remove that oxidized sugar stains.

So the question is, How Long Can You Safely Wait?

I always recommend that you clean a garment as quickly as possible.  However, stains don't set immediately.

Specific Tips:

• Try not to put water on the stain at the scene of a stain.  Do not put water on any stain if you don't plan on finishing the job.  Almost getting a stain out can be worse than not doing anything.  Blot don't rub, and avoid using water unless you are prepared to finish the job.  This is especially true with blood and wine.  As for ink - please don't ever put water on ink.  It will set it immediately.

• Leaving your clothes in the car.   The heat that can build up in a car can cook your clothes and set a stain in the matter of an hour.  Once that is done, your clothes may be done for.

• Taking a cotton shirt off after sweating and leaving it in your closet for a week.  I see this from guys again and again.  Men (sorry for the generalization guys, I do love you) finish a hard days work with out noticing they had been perspiring.  they leave their shirts in the back of the closet for over a week.  Perspiration creates a chemical reaction and weakens the fibers quickly.  Especially a natural fiber such as cotton or silk.  When the shirt is cleaned, the shirt tears. . . typically in the area where the shirt came in contact with the person, the underarm or the back. 

In closing, I believe you will be better off waiting (storing the clothes in a cool place with little sunlight), than taking any prized item to an unknown cleaners.  Dry Cleaners are not all made equally.  There are no requirements that make someone qualified to be a cleaner.  And because cleaners are so dependent on humans (it is more of an art than a science), a cleaners reputation and history will be key!

5 things you must know so you wil not be "Taken to the Cleaners!"

Choosing a Dry Cleaner. 

Many people do this without a second thought, picking the guy with the lowest rates or the store on the way home. This can be a costly mistake though. Choosing the wrong dry cleaner can "send you to the cleaners" when you favorite, expensive clothing items are lost, damaged, or worse. Today we are going to tell you five things to consider when choosing a dry cleaner.

1. Customer Service. I would have to rate this as the most important thing to consider in your dry cleaner search. Note the staff. Are they friendly? Helpful? Knowledgeable? Do they acknowledge you with a smile when you walk in the door? You want to find an establishment that actually cares about their customers, because they will be the ones, if something bad actually does happen, to make it right.

2. Experience. You don't want a "just out of the box" dry cleaner. What you do want is someone who has been in the business a long time, who knows all the in's and outs. This is very important! You want a dry cleaner who takes pride in their work, and not someone who is just worried about getting you in and out and taking your money. So definitely, look for someone experienced!
 
3. Cheapest Is Not Always Best. People often forget this point. Most people are only out to find the cheapest dry cleaner, and then they are disappointed when the quality of the work is not up to par. The fact of the matter is, there is no dry cleaner that can have the best employees, the best equipment, the best customer service, the fastest turn around, AND the cheapest rates. It is just impossible. So, remember, you have to sacrifice somewhere. I would rather pay a little more for better service.

4. Guarantees. A good dry cleaner should guarantee their work, no question about it. If you are not happy with their service, they should be willing to do whatever it takes to make it right. If that means a refund, if that means replacing your clothing, or cleaning your garment a second, or third, time. You want to make sure that you find a dry cleaner that stands behind their work.

5. Extra Services. This is not a requirement, but it can be very convenient to choose a cleaner who offers extra services. Some of these can include "green" dry cleaning, wedding gowns, leather cleaning, same day pickup, drop off and pickup services, repairs and alterations, etc. Like previously stated, these services are not a requirement of a good dry cleaner, but should be considered in your choice, if you will need these sorts of services.

Hopefully these tips will help your search for a dry cleaner to be an easy and rewarding one!

How to Remove a Blood Stain at Home

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First thing:  Is your stained garment silk, rayon, wool, or some other dryclean only fabric? Then I recommend taking it to a well trusted drycleaner!

If you have a polyester or cotton and the label says launder or wash, then you are wise to follow my advice!

1) Best chance to remove a blood stain is to treat it as quickly as possible before it has a chance to set.  

2) ALWAYS TRY COLD WATER FIRST , since harsher chemicals may damage more delicate fabrics and/or pull color.

3) Let the item soak a little - then scrub - with a fingernail scrub brush, your fingernail.

Here is the most important tip: If the blood doesn't come out all the way, DO NOT GIVE UP!  Keep scrubbing.  If you need to take a break, that's fine.   - Leave the item soaking.  Scrubbing for 10-15 minutes or longer of is not uncalled for for a large stain, or if the stain has been sitting a little while.  Do be careful not to scrub a whole in the garment.

4) If you must - you can add a little soap.  The soap acts as a lubricant making it easier to remove the soils.  Using too much soap DOES NOT increase the chances of a stain coming out!

5) If soap doesn't do the job completely, try pouring ammonia straight over the stain and scrub again.

6) EXTREME MEASURES: Hydrogen Peroxide is another method - soak the entire stain in straight Hydrogen Peroxide 10-15 minutes and rinse with water.  Watch for color loss with this one. If the stains are all over - I would dilute the Hydrogen Peroxide in water - and soak the entire garment.  Watch it carefully - as soon as the stains start to move rinse and then wash the item completely!

Do you have FANCY shirts?

My favorite shirt at the moment is Robert Graham. . . But preferences change quickly.  What I do know is often these cotton shirts can cost $200, $300, $400+ each!  That is quite an investment.

The best deal at your local drycleaner is cleaning a standard men's cotton dress shirt.  In the industry it's known as a "commercial laundry."  However, I learned a long time ago that everything has a trade off.  In this case it is the wear and tear on your shirts.  And if you have fancy shirts, you may want to reconsider having them cleaned this way.

Better cleaners will scrub the collars and cuffs before putting your shirt in the wash.  All cleaners will wash the shirts (detergents may vary) and then press the shirt.  I do not call it ironing because it is not ironing.  These shirts will not go into a dryer.  They are dried by the pressing process which is a big hot metal plate, the size of a standard mans shirt, that clamps down on the shirt.  This results in a crisp smooth finish that many people love.  However it is hard on the shirt.  The life of the shirt that is cleaned this way is between 36 and 52 washings.

Any shirt with fancy buttons or snaps, tapering, loose plackets can be damaged by this process.  Many shirt materials such as corduroy, linen, seersucker or flannel cannot be processed this way without being damaged (or looking really bad) and only shirts that fit on the special machine can be processed this way.
  
When I was first entering this industry I had the opportunity to visited the New York Turnbull & Asser store (where they make fancy shirts.)  I asked them "why they put those little bubble in the tip of the collar,  when all commercial laundry equipment just flattens it right out?!"

By the look on the associates face, I had just said something horrible. 
It was clear he thought the drycleaner (me!) was irresponsibly cleaning their shirts.  The Turnbull & Asser people fully expect that every shirt would be cold water wash, gently dried and hand ironed.  This service is often 3 times as expensive, or more!

So here is a HUGE disconnect between the maker of the clothes and the cleaner.  I believe in an effort to provide value, the cleaner has unknowingly done a disservice to their customers.

So how much should you pay to have your shirts cleaned?
Well, that depends on your preferences an how long you want them to last. 

What is your time worth?  Hand ironing takes time, and time is one resource that we can't get back!
When in doubt, ask your cleaner - we are here to help you take care of your wardrobe.

Clothing Storage Tip

Last night I was at dinner and the subject of drycleaning came up.
We were discussing the basics when I mentioned that you should never store your clothes in the plastic bag that the drycleaner puts over your clothes. That bag is just meant to protect your clothes on the journey from the cleaners to your closet.

My friends were so surprised by my statement, I thought maybe I should tell more people.

I can think of three major reasons why you should never to store your clothes in plastic (drycleaners call it poly)

1. The plastic that drycleaners put on your clothes is a petroleum product. It is a chemical that outgasses. These gasses can and will permeate your clothes. I have had customers bring clothes back because of the unpleasant odor. They believed it was a residual drycleaning solvent smell. I had to assure them that we do not use traditional drycleaning solvent - so drycleaning chemicals were not the cause of the odor.

2. The plastic captures moisture that can foster the growth of molds and/or mildew. These can ruin your clothes and infest your closet!

3. The bag can trap atmospheric gasses that can cause color change on your garments over time. Fume fading often hapens in closets over time - but leaving your items in the plastic will accellerate this process

How should you store your items?

If it is heavy, like a bulky sweater or knit dress. Don't store it on a hanger. Gravity does a lot of damage! I like to roll the items with a piece of acid free tissue and wrap it in a clean peice of material - like an old pillow case.

In the closet, that same pillow case works wonders. Cut a hole in the top and put it over the item - it protects it from light and dust and will cause no harm. A clean sheet will also do the trick.

And perhaps the most important question. . . . what to do with all that plastic?
Film plastic is not currently being recycled in most areas - so before putting it in the recycle bin - you may want to call and make sure it is being accepted and not just put in the land fill. I always recommend giving it back to the cleaners. The better ones have a recycling plan, and if they don't - the more people that return the plastic, the more likely they will be to consider it.

Check out my blog "take the plastic back" from a few years ago:

Take the Plastic Back!

Thanks - and have a great day!

To Hand Wash or Dryclean? 5 Secrets to Success when Hand Washing!

I am getting this question regarding "hand wash vs dryclean" more often and the answer is more complicated than you may expect. Some items hand-wash beautifully! But there are risks.

I always recommend you take your items to the drycleaner!


Why? 2 reasons: 1) Cleaning items always involves (at least a small) risk. And a trusted drycleaner has the experience and training to minimize these risks - and - worse case scenario - if something were to go wrong, a reputable drycleaner should help resolve any issues. and 2) How much is your time worth?

Many items people believe are dryclean only, really are not! Cashmere and many silks hand wash beautifully! That said - here are the solutions to the most common issues in hand wash!



RULE #1: NEVER HAND WASH AN ITEM WHEN THE LABEL READS "Dryclean Only" or "Do Not Wash!" They mean it! And beware the trim and other add-ons. Often a label will read . . . excluding trim (watch for this with leather trim!). I recommend not buying garments with labels like that - it means there is no way to clean that garment!

Risks: Water is a harsh solvent. Water may cause fabrics or linings to shrink, colors and trims to bleed, older fabrics, or heavily soiled (old stains) may rinse our with holes. Certain fabrics do not wash well - acetate and velvet come quickly to mind! And I would leave any leathers to the professionals. It is always a good idea to test a garment before committing the entire piece into the bath!

5 factors to consider when Hand Washing:


1) Stains: When you clean with water, BEWARE! If there are stains, and you do not remove them, they are likely set for life!



2) Pilling: Unfortunately, the price you pay for a sweater and whether or not it will pill are unrelated. Expensive garments are often made from poor quality yarn fibers that break easily. You can reduce pilling by turning it inside out before dipping - dry flat. A razor or shaver can do wonders. I do not recommend the stone or tape, both of which can make the problem worse.



3) Wrinkling: Hard wrinkles are normally created in the dryer. Do not overdry clothes - they should be slightly damp when they come out of the dryer AND do not overload the dryer OR your washer! Line drying can cause the same issue - the sun can overdry and/or bleach your clothes. Often these wrinkles become permanent! Wrinkles should be removed promptly - especially in knits - Once set they may become permanent.



4) Color Fading: Natural fibers do not hold color! That is why jeans fade so easily. Silk is also a natural fiber. Today's polyesters are amazing, and I would recommend that if you prefer black or navy shirts, to consider one of the new blended materials. Cold water and light drying (see above) are also recommend!



5) Color Bleeding: This applies to both trims and black (red or any bright color) and white prints. The only way to be sure is to test. And then you still can't be sure! Dyes are supposed to be fixed by the manufacturer - but often this doesn't happen. You can fix the color by soaking it a color fixative, but it is not always possible. I recommend consumers take item that fails back to where you bought it - I never understand why people forgive retailers for selling non-cleanable items. If more people held clothing manufactures accountable - perhaps the problem would lessen.. . . . .

Whoops - guess cleaning is in my blood, and I can't help having a (strong) opinion on the matter!

Don't make the same mistake I did!

This is going to be more like a confession. A "do as I say not as I do."
Tonight I am going to a rather formal, rather large birthday party charity event. I was very excited!
So yesterday I went to my closet to get out a beautiful black dress that I only ever wore one time. You know the dress. It makes you look and feel wonderful. The perfect dress that you looked for for years - then found it felt even better when you wore it.

Well I got it out, and to my horror, there were some dirt marks on it.

I had put the dress away last year WITHOUT CLEANING IT.

I know why I did this:

• it looked clean
• I only wore it one evening
• and dry - cleaning is expensive.

The thing is, I know better. I work in drycleaning. If anyone wants their clothes to last - they need to clean them before storing:

• Soils left in material attract insects that can damage material.
• soils left in material oxidize over time and become more noticeable and harder to remove.
• soils left in material can pull color over time.

So now, as I mourn my perfect dress and prepare to go out and buy a new dress for tonight, I share this story so that you can learn from my mistake. Buying a new dress is much more expensive than the cleaning cost would have been - and that doesn't include the time or stress of running around last minute. . . . . OK well the last minute part may be a different problem.
The moral of the story: Clean your clothes before putting them away for storage!

Save Money On Your Wardrobe

It seems that everyone is feeling the pinch of our downward economy. Talk of doom and gloom is all around. It looks like 2009 will be a bad year for most of us financially.

So it is natural that we are all watching our spending. I have noticed that there are fewer people out at the restaurants during the week and stores seem to be closing daily. If you are watching your finances, you probably want to make all your investments last, including your clothing investment.

I have noticed a significant drop in clothes going to the drycleaners. I have talked with cleaners around the country and the trend is everywhere. While I understand why many people have no choice but to reduce spending, cleaning clothing after use is still the best investment for your clothes. As long as you are conscientious, and follow care labels and detergent directions cleaning your clothes yourself is a much better option than just wearing them more frequently between cleaning, or not cleaning them and putting them in their closet.

If you want your garments to last and look sharp like when you bought them, ALWAYS clean them after wearing. When you store soiled garments, many things can happen. Also keep in mind that just because a garment looks clean, it may not be.

Please, if you want your garments to last, the important thing to remember is you will almost always clean garments after you wear them. How you clean them is up to you.

3 Common Types of Damage Caused by NOT Cleaning After Wear:

1. Body oils are often not readily visible, but perspiration and other things that we exude from our pores are often acidic and damage fibers over time. This can create holes or color loss. Men's shirt collars can be especially problematic. Those oils around the neck may be nearly invisible, but if they have time to oxidize, the shirt may not recover!
2. Some spills like white whine or 7up dry completely clear. However, if they are not removed they will oxidize and turn brown the same way an apple turns brown after you take a bite and leave it out. Once these stains turn brown they are very difficult, and sometimes impossible to remove.
3. Insects such as moths are really after the soils in the cloths, and they will cause damage.