If you are like me, you have a significant investment in our wardrobe and you have a few pieces that you expect to hold onto for many seasons. How and where we store our garments has a huge effect on their life expectacy. A well designed closet should keep your items organized and keep them in good condition. It is astounding the damage that can be done to garments by a poorly designed closet - from insect damage to mildew, sun fading and more. Below are some tips on creating the perfect closet (from a garment storage perspective:-).
Use low wattage lights in your closet - AND NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT! I am amazed at how many sky lights or windows I see in closets. Windows are not for your closet. The sun will bleach your clothes the same way it will bleach your hair. I have also seen ultraviolet lights being sold for closets. These lights do an excellent job at controlling mildew but serious sun fading can result!
If you have a bright closet, or blocking the window is not an option, put clean white sheets over items you don't wear frequently. You can poke a hole in the middle of the sheet to put over the hanger.
Closets that have one (or heaven forbid more than one) exterior wall should not be used for long term storage of garments. Closets with exterior walls tend to have higher humidity. Anything stored next to an outside wall will be effected by both the changes in temperature and the absorption of moisture. Guest room closets with are infrequently opened should also be avoided or as a minimum leave the doors ajar periodically to air them out.
Closet tip . . . when you are away on a trip, open all your closet doors to allow air to circulate. This will reduce humidity and control mildew growth. Also insects cause the most damage when they are isolated and un-bothered.
Closet dryers are available such as the crystalline type for small storage areas. You can find them and better hardware stores. Larger closets require electric dryers.
Do no pack clothes tightly into a closet -- they need room to breath
Cedar lining of a closet can help reduce insect damage. The cedar requires rejuvenation YEARLY by scuffing up the surface as the cedar will reseal itself. I do no recommend moth balls! The moth ball odor is often impossible to remove from garments. For long term storage I recommend a cedar chest.
Some tips that even the perfect closet would appreciate:
Cedar closet lining can be cut to length and laid on shelves or placed in drawers. This is much more effective and less costly than purchasing cedar blocks.
Never put garments away for the season (or an extended period) without cleaning them. Invisible stains (fruit juice, champagne, white wine, etc) will oxidize (picture how an apple turns brown after you take a bite and set it aside). Oxidized stains are very difficult to remove. Also, it is the soils in the clothes that insects love. So putting worn garments in your closet will be an invitation to bugs.
Room dry all damp clothes and leather and suedes after each wear, BEFORE returning them to the closet. Fabrics and especially leather and suede are hygroscopic and will retain moisture when worn.
Store knits flat! Gravity can do great damage over time to many garments. Knits are especially prone because they are constructed to move and stretch. Always store knits flat on a shelf or in a drawer. I have seen fine knits that have stretched several inches from hanging in the closet.
Heavy and beaded garments should be stored on padded hangers, with pin supports and using the provided straps for further support. If there are none, you can pin a strap to each side at the waist. This helps remove some of the weight and retain the garment's shape.
Never store clothing in plastic bags provided by the drycleaner. Those bags are intended to protect your items on the trip home from the cleaner. The bags catch gasses given off by the atmosphere, garments and that come out of the plastic. When contained in the bags such gases can build up in concentrations to damaging levels.
History of Drycleaning
Spirits of turpentine were used to remove stains of an oily nature as far back as the beginning of the 18th century. The garment cleaning industry existed in both Europe and the United States prior to the mid-1800's. The trade was known as "dyer-scourer." The cleaners job was based on wet cleaning processes with solvents used for localized spot removal.
The process reversed itself in the late 18th century and relied primarily on the use of solvents for cleaning as opposed to water. Cleaners found that less shrinkage, dye loss, and wrinkling occurred making the finishing operations easier.
The first dry cleaning operation was Mr. J. B. Jolly's cleaning and dyeing firm in Paris, France. Primarily camphene solvent was used. This solvent was less than ideal as it left a lingering odor of turpentine. Other early solvents included benzole, kerosene and gasoline.
In 1928 W. J. Stoddard developed an acceptable petroleum based solvent which became known as Stoddard solvent. Because of its low flash point of 100 degrees, another similar solvent called 140degree solvent was developed because it was safer. This solvent remains in use today.
In the 1930's trichloloroethylene and carbon tetrachloride were being used starting a trend toward synthetic solvents. These solvents were advantageous because they were non-flammable and fast drying. Also in the 1930's perchloroethylene came into use and is still the primary solvent used today. One other solvent developed in the 1960's known as flourocarbon solvent has the advantage of its gentleness to fabrics and dyes. Because of the discovery of the detrimental effect on the ozone layer, this solvent was phased out of use in the US.
Today, petroleum solvents (often called organic, true, but there is no healthful advantage to a petroleum solvent), and perchloroethylene are the major solvents utilized for the drycleaning industry. Many alternatives are being developed, Silicone (Green Earth), CO2, Drysolve, etc. in an effort to clean and be more environmentally conscious.
Source Note: Drycleaning Laundry Institute, MD
The process reversed itself in the late 18th century and relied primarily on the use of solvents for cleaning as opposed to water. Cleaners found that less shrinkage, dye loss, and wrinkling occurred making the finishing operations easier.
The first dry cleaning operation was Mr. J. B. Jolly's cleaning and dyeing firm in Paris, France. Primarily camphene solvent was used. This solvent was less than ideal as it left a lingering odor of turpentine. Other early solvents included benzole, kerosene and gasoline.
In 1928 W. J. Stoddard developed an acceptable petroleum based solvent which became known as Stoddard solvent. Because of its low flash point of 100 degrees, another similar solvent called 140degree solvent was developed because it was safer. This solvent remains in use today.
In the 1930's trichloloroethylene and carbon tetrachloride were being used starting a trend toward synthetic solvents. These solvents were advantageous because they were non-flammable and fast drying. Also in the 1930's perchloroethylene came into use and is still the primary solvent used today. One other solvent developed in the 1960's known as flourocarbon solvent has the advantage of its gentleness to fabrics and dyes. Because of the discovery of the detrimental effect on the ozone layer, this solvent was phased out of use in the US.
Today, petroleum solvents (often called organic, true, but there is no healthful advantage to a petroleum solvent), and perchloroethylene are the major solvents utilized for the drycleaning industry. Many alternatives are being developed, Silicone (Green Earth), CO2, Drysolve, etc. in an effort to clean and be more environmentally conscious.
Source Note: Drycleaning Laundry Institute, MD
Caring for Your Neck Tie
A favorite Christmas gift for men is the necktie. Neckties are also a way to add a fashion statement to men's business attire. Today I want to talk about what you can do to make you ties last for years to come!
AVOID STAINS: People don't realize that ties are specialty items and are not really intended to be cleaned too frequently. That said - the best way to avoid wear is to protect your tie when you eat. Pulling it to the side, removing it or covering it with a napkin are all good options.
UNTIE THE KNOT: Leaving the tie knotted between wearings may cause permanent wrinkles. Always store your ties untied! Be gentle when you tie and untie your tie. Do not pull the small end through the knot to untie as this action forces undue stress on the fragile bias material comprising most ties.
REMOVING WATER MARKS: Ties should not be rubbed to remove a stain with the exception of water marks. Some water marks can be removed by lightly rubbing the mark with the small end of the tie, use no moisture or agents. Be sure to rub gently and monitor progress from all angles to prevent damage to the finish.
REMOVING WRINKLES: After removing your tie for the day, if there are any wrinkles, roll the tie around a finger, slip the rolled tie off, and store overnight. Do not roll too tightly and do not keep it in the rolled up position for more than a day or two. If this is unsuccessful, try rolling the tie in the other direction. Never press a tie with an iron!
CLEANING TIES: Ties are very fragile and require experienced and competent care. Proper cleaning can only be achieved by a professional that will take the care to hand treat, very gently clean, and block the tie to its proper shape. Ties should never be ironed or pressed, as such actions will force the bias material out of shape and cause impressions, crease edges and generally remove life from the tie.
Inspect some finished work from a cleaner before entrusting one with such unique articles.
AVOID STAINS: People don't realize that ties are specialty items and are not really intended to be cleaned too frequently. That said - the best way to avoid wear is to protect your tie when you eat. Pulling it to the side, removing it or covering it with a napkin are all good options.
UNTIE THE KNOT: Leaving the tie knotted between wearings may cause permanent wrinkles. Always store your ties untied! Be gentle when you tie and untie your tie. Do not pull the small end through the knot to untie as this action forces undue stress on the fragile bias material comprising most ties.
REMOVING WATER MARKS: Ties should not be rubbed to remove a stain with the exception of water marks. Some water marks can be removed by lightly rubbing the mark with the small end of the tie, use no moisture or agents. Be sure to rub gently and monitor progress from all angles to prevent damage to the finish.
REMOVING WRINKLES: After removing your tie for the day, if there are any wrinkles, roll the tie around a finger, slip the rolled tie off, and store overnight. Do not roll too tightly and do not keep it in the rolled up position for more than a day or two. If this is unsuccessful, try rolling the tie in the other direction. Never press a tie with an iron!
CLEANING TIES: Ties are very fragile and require experienced and competent care. Proper cleaning can only be achieved by a professional that will take the care to hand treat, very gently clean, and block the tie to its proper shape. Ties should never be ironed or pressed, as such actions will force the bias material out of shape and cause impressions, crease edges and generally remove life from the tie.
Inspect some finished work from a cleaner before entrusting one with such unique articles.
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