Drycleaning with gasoline: Do not try this at home!

I love these old safety videos! Hope you enjoy

Drycleaning has probably been around since the advent of textile clothing. There are many stories about the origin of drycleaning, all centering on a surprise discovery when a petroleum-type fluid was accidentally spilled on a greasy fabric. It quickly evaporated and the stains were miraculously removed. In spite of the name, drycleaning is not completely dry. Fluids are used in the drycleaning process. In the early days, garment scourers and dryers found several fluids that could be used as drycleaning solvents, including camphene, benzene, kerosene, and gasoline. These fluids are all dangerously flammable, so drycleaning was a hazardous business until safer solvents were developed. In the 1930s, percholoroethylene or *perc*(a nonflammable, synthetic solvent) was introduced and is used today in many drycleaning plants. Other cleaning solvents have been added, and still others are currently being tested. Silicon (GreenEarth) and CO2 are two arguably more environmentally benign solvents - but they are still being tested. Driven by concerns about perc and other drycleaning solvents, has resulted in a sophisticated machine-based process called “wetcleaning” which uses water as the solvent. Wetcleaning is done in specially-designed machines that have to be operated by garment care professionals. While professional cleaners have always employed some form of water-based cleaning methods, often by hand, these historic methods bear little resemblance to the new machine-based wetcleaning process.

Top Ten Ways to Protect Your Clothes from Mildew!

Because the climate where I live is relatively humid, I see many clients with mold/mildew issues in their homes, offices and in their closets.

As molds grow, they cause considerable damage. They leave a musty odor; they discolor fabrics; and sometimes they eat into them until the fabrics rot and fall to pieces. They also discolor leather, paper and plastic!

Mildew and mold have many similar characteristics, but they are different types of fungi, and are often different in color and texture. They both grow in similar moist, warm environments. Mold is more often found in foods, and mildew in paper, your shower and fabrics. However both can be found anywhere there is warm moisture. Mold is often black, green, red, or blue while mildew is usually gray or white (often a dusting of light dots).

Here is my Top Ten List: How to protect your clothes from fungus!

1) Protect your health first! Do NOT shake out anything that has mildew or mold on it, inside your house. You will just be spreading the spores. Take it outside. Sunshine and fresh air will kill the mildew.

2) Mild dry heat discourages mildew. Use dehumidifiers or leave a light bulb turned on in areas where the fungus is most likely to breed (sorry, it must be an incandescent bulb to create heat)

3) Mildew thrives in plastic. Remove clothing from plastic drycleaning bags immediately! There are other reasons not to store clothing in plastic, but this should be enough!

4) Mildew needs dirt or dust to survive. Check your clothes for spots/stains every time you hang them up. Clean your clothes anytime you do not plan on wearing them for a while.

5) Clothes need to breath. Keep about an inch between your clothes (don't cram them in - that will create wrinkles anyway). Keep your closet door open or ajar to help with air flow. Ceiling fans are a great idea in a closet!

6) NEVER hang clothes in your closet, unless they are completely dry.

7) Stuff your shoes and handbags that you don't wear daily with a little tissue. Check the tissue when you discard it, it could be an early warning signal.

8) Position your closet well! If you are building or renovating a home, avoid using outside walls as closet walls, and avoid putting closets near or in bathrooms.

9) Opt for paint, not wall paper on your closet walls.

10) If you see mildew/mold, act early and quickly! There are many pre-bottled solutions on the market today that help to remove mildew from different surfaces. These solutions have specific instructions and should be followed carefully.

2 more notes:

DRYCLEANING CAN REMOVE MOLD. However, if you put your garments back in a storage area with spores in it, the fungus will return quickly. Drycleaning WILL NOT, however, get rid of mold damage. Often mold damages the color or material. This results in damage after drycleaning (color loss, tears, interfacing issues, etc) that wasn't there before cleaning.

OZONE can be used to eliminate the musty odor of the fungus. Not all cleaners have access to this, or even know about it. Be sure to ask for it if you are cleaning items with a musty smell.

The drycleaner and film plastic. . . . Great News!

Most people are aware of the environmental issues related to grocery store plastic bags. Some cities have even talked about charging a fee, similar to the redemption fee on aluminum cans, as a means of discouraging their use. And many folks have taken it upon themselves to start using reusable bags when grocery shopping.

If you are using re-usable grocery bags, I commend you!

Plastic and the drycleaning industry has long been a concern of mine. More so than the solvents - In my opinion. Solvent is 99% recycled in drycleaning, and the remaining 1% should be hauled off and properly disposed. In a home washer, all the water goes straight down the drain along with the soils and detergents. This opinion is arguable, but it's my opinion.

Single use plastic on the other hand, that really concerns me. I have noticed lots of drycleaner using plastic bags with the "ECO" printed on them. This also concerns me.
REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE. . . . . writing ECO on something really doesn't do anything.

I am providing here the breakout (pro and con) of the options available. One option I am not providing is giving back the clothes without protection. I know this is the best option. . . . and it is how it was done before about the 1950's. The cleaner would remove the clothes from the hanger, and hand it to the customer without a bag! Amazing!

-- Biodegradable: Not available in the drycleaning industry. Corn based and not crystal clear. May degrade on the clothes even if it were avail.

-- Degradable: Available and many cleaners are using it. Plastic breaks down into fine particles, then is around for 100,000s of years. NOT RECYCLABLE!

-- Reusable mesh garment bags: Pricey, and not cleanable. Most of these bags are advertised as environmental, "Bring in your dirty clothes, then convert it to a garment bag" Well, They are really disposable because they are not woven and therefore not cleanable. They also tend to tear, causing damage and lost clothing.

-- Recycling: You need to find a manufacturer who will use the product. At a recent business meeting our local trash hauling company made the public statement that "There are currently NO manufacturers using film plastic, so all film plastic is being put in a landfill". ---

THANKFULLY I did some research and that is not true. There is a market for film plastic, mostly in China. I found a manufacturer in Nevada that would purchase film plastic from my facility directly. I have decided that this is currently the best option. I am installing a bailer next month and will be actively collecting film plastic from all the cleaners and dryclean customers in town.

Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions about film plastic:-)

New app to help with dry-clean errand!

I am a long time Verizon user and have been longing for an iPhone for years! Recently, I purchased an iPad. And I love it! Unfortunatly, my burning desire for an iPhone has only increased as I experience the usefulness and fun aspect of the iPad applications also known as apps. From google goggles, to star gazer, from vuvuzuela to pull my finger, these apps range from the useful to the silly.
Apps are elegant and fun to use.

So what does this have to do with Drycleaning? Well, I just ran across the dry-clean only app! I have downloaded the lite version for the iPhone on my iPad, and so far, it looks pretty useful. Enter in your receipts when you drop off your items. . . And get a push notification 2hours before your pick up time.

Pretty cool!

If you want true convenience, get pick up and delivery Drycleaning service -you can still use this app for that.
So far, this app only has rated 2 stars. I was so excited that it existed, I wanted to share immediately.

Click here to read about this app: http://www.nightclubapps.com/2010/04/23/dry-clean-only-nightclub-apps-review/

If you have any experience, positive or negative, with this app please share with us!
Thanks and happy cleaning!

Have a problem with odor in you clothes? Read this!

I ran across this article and thought it some of you may benefit from this information.
I posted my 2 cent response, and was impressed by all the ideas.

It's mostly accurate, but please don't use infused vodka for removing odor, and use caution on any dry-clean only garments.

http://corporette.com/2010/06/08/when-drycleaning-just-doesnt-help/

Ruined Clothes: What does a drycleaner owe you?

Buyer Beware!

I ran across this article this morning that I thought was well put together and a good reminder for all drycleaning consumers. It was fair and had all the right information. In a nutshell, a woman took her sample wedding gown into a cleaners to be cleaned before the wedding, and it came back ruined. She is now out over $1000 and the cleaners is doing nothing.

Ruined Clothes: What does a drycleaner owe you?

One important thing not addressed was; How much did Gigi's French Cleaners Charge for the gown cleaning?

Now I know on the surface, this looks like the cleaner is all wrong. And maybe he is. But all cleaners are not alike. It takes a tremendous amount on training to clean gowns that are intentionally manufactured to not be cleaned (hence "spotclean only")

In 2010, a full wedding gown cleaning should cost between $200-$400 dollars. That's how much it cost to be able to 1) afford the proper training, 2) take the time necessary, 3) honor the error and cover the cost of any possible damage. The Association of Wedding Gown Specialists has members that can replace panels, and have even ordered replacements for brides (from damage by the client that was irreparable).

When taking treasured items into a cleaner, YOU should 1) check the reputation of the cleaners - the BBB website is an easy way to see, 2) ask a clothing boutique (in this case she could have asked where she purchased the gown) and 3) Remember, you get what you pay for. I believe if you that spend less than 8% of the new cost of the clothes - you may not be getting the service you should. For example: If you have a $1000 Armani suit, and you are paying less than $80 to have it cleaned. . . . then you may just end up getting what you paid for, a ruined suit with no compensation.

10 Things Your Drycleaner Wants you to Know! Here is a GREAT article!

Usually when there is a dry cleaning article in the general press, it is very negative. However in this case I want to show everyone I meet the article.

The only downside is the name. Rather than "10 things your dry cleaner won't tell you" I would call it "10 things your dry cleaner wants you to know!


http://www.womansday.com/Articles/Shelter/Organizing-Cleaning/10-Things-Your-Dry-Cleaner-Won-t-Tell-You.html

Shopping Know-How for Men: Greater Rewards in Less Time!

Since this is a blog about drycleaning, I am going to focus on those most common garments that must be drycleaned: A sport coat and dress slacks.

Identifying issues before you buy, can save you a lot of grief at the drycleaners and save you money in the long run!

SPORT COATS: There are 6 (or 7 depending on how you count) major issues you should address before you buy a sport coat (and that does not include how it looks and feels when you try it on)!

1. Lapel Roll

• Lapels are meant to be rolled, not pressed with a crease.
• ALL jackets are meant to have the lapel roll to about one inch above the top button.
• Gabardine and soft wools are hard to train to roll, do not buy if it does not roll properly!
• If you wear your jacket open frequently, you should also avoid these fabrics, the material will gain a new "memory" over time and likely not roll properly after a while.

2. Back Collar Felt

• The back collar of the jacket should always cover the felt below it.
• Before buying a jacket. check to ensure this is the case! It usually appears fine when hanging on the hanger, however it may be different when you try on the jacket (a good reason to bring a companion when you shop).
• If the felt has been cut or fitted poorly, it will show below the collar.
• Posture may also create this unfortunate condition.
• If you see progressive shrinkage with drycleaning, ask your cleaner to steam, stretch, and reblock the collar to cover the felt.

3. Fusible vs. Sewn Construction

• The fusing process usually uses an interfacing, an adhesive, and material.
• This process gives the jacket a clean, smooth line and is commonly used with gabardine and tropical-weight fabrics.
• Adhesive will ALWAYS break down eventually. In time or after several years, the glues just give up.
• This results in a bubbling or puckering most commonly in the front area.
• There is some debate over what causes this - but I am certain it is just the chemical nature of adhesives!
• Price does not dictate the quality of fused construction. However fused construction is typically less expensive than a sewn construction jacket.
• If you want your jacket to last over 5 years, I recommend not purchasing a fused jacket
• The Problem with Sewn Construction? The lining is typically made of a different material from the jacket. So after several cleanings, different rates of shrinkage cause a rippled effect.
• -- A decent tailor can normally correct this problem.

4. Two-Button vs. Three Button Jackets

• ALWAYS keep the extra buttons that come with your jacket!
• The traditional 3 button jacket (made famous by Brooks Brothers) presents a special problem: the top button is usually hidden under the lapel roll. However, since most cleaners machine press the lapel, you will be left with a circular button impression! That is quite unsatisfactory! (if you have any 3 button jackets, go check and see if you have that ugly button impression).
• I recommend removing the top button if this is the case. You can's see it anyway, so why not avoid having your cleaners mess it up?
• If you want to wear a three-button as a three button, please get a designer jacket that was designed to be a three-button jacket.

5. Single Breasted or Double Breasted

• Single-breasted jackets are easy to wear and have less material than double-breasted jackets.
• A single-breasted jacket can be worn unbuttoned and still look neat.
• Double-breasted jackets may not be the best choice for a shorter man with a full build.
• Double-breasted jackets are designed to be worn buttoned at all times! Wearing them unbuttoned not only looks bad, but it can damage the lapel roll.

6. Fabrics: The fabric you select will have a tremendous impact on the life, wear and cleanablity of you clothes!

LOW MAINTENANCE: 100% Wool wears longer than blends. Fall and Winter weaves (flannel, tweed, herringbone, etc) are the easiest to maintain because they are 100% wool, wrinkle resistant, and respond to brushing after wearing (you should always brush your wool jackets after wearing!)

Blended Fabrics that contain some polyester are wrinkle resistant but tend to shine faster. Fabrics with a nap or texture show less soil and tend to press well.

Of the cotton fabrics, seersucker is the most durable and least labor-intensive. Some seersucker can be washed, although drycleaning is more gentle.

HIGH MAINTENANCE: Thin, summer cotton may feel great, but it wrinkles easily. And frequent pressings of a light color will cause the jacket to wear more quickly.

Lighter fabrics also show perspiration and may have more damage due to perspiration - be sure your jacket is lined if you have a summer jacket!

Natural fibers do not hold color! So a brightly colored linen, or cotton jacket, besides needing to be pressed frequently and damaged by perspiration, will fade. And if you get a stain, there is a high likely hood it will not be removable without pulling a little color. This leave a light spot where the stain used to be! NEVER RUB A STAIN ON THIS MATERIAL - You will be left with a damaged area!

Gabardine - can shine easily, and if it is heavy weight - often has fusing issues.

Superfine Wool - also known as Super 100, Super 120 and even Super 180. This is very delicate material and not a good idea for an everyday suit. It wears easily and most quickly at the elbows.

Camel, cashmere and silk blends - not for everyday wear. These materials should be cleaned on MANUAL drycleaning cycle and are therefore expensive to clean. If your cleaner is not charging for these items, beware!

Raw "nubby" Silk - Pill easily, Difficult to clean (fading and stain removal - this is also a natural fiber),

Suit and Dress Slacks: Pants take more abuse than the jacket does, and they are typically drycleaned more often than the jacket. Consider the fabric (discussed above) when you are purchasing your pants!

GOOD IDEA: When you buy a suit, purchase an extra pair of slacks at the same time!

Whew! This is already longer than I intended. Now you know why none of my friends take me shopping! Take my advise, and you will be enjoying your purchase for years to come.

Did You Know . . . Drycleaning is Actually Wet!

Drycleaning actually uses solvent instead of water for the cleaning process. The solvent contains little or no water, hence the term “dry cleaning.”

Drycleaning (by one story) was discovered in 1825 when a Frenchman named Jean-Babptist Jolly knocked over a lamp, spilling a petroleum-type fluid onto his tablecloth. Jolly noted that the fluid removed a stain on the fabric. Dating back to mid-1800’s, past drycleaning solvents have included naptha, kerosene, benzene and other flammable, dangerous chemicals. Advanced petroleum-based solvent was developed as an alteternative in the early 1900s, and in the 1930’s perchloroethylene (“perc”) was introduced as a nonflammable solvent. Today, perc is one of the most common solvents in drycleaning.

I refer to “perc” as traditional drycleaning. Because of spills and environmental and health concerns, perc has recently come under EPA scrutiny. Alternative solvent are now becoming more common, such as Green Earth (a silicone solvent) or new versions of petroleum solvents.