People often call asking how to remove a stain. Drycleaners do not like answering that question. We want to be helpful. However, there are so many variables. What follows is a quick list of the most common home remedies - THESE ARE FOR MACHINE WASHABLE, COLORFAST GARMENTS ONLY!
*Trade names are used for illustrative purposes only. Other similar product may perform as well.
WISK*: for pre-treating ring around the collar and not-so-difficult stains. Be sure and let the garment sit for about 20 minutes before washing, and follow all manufacturer's instructions.
BIZ*: I love this product. It is for pre-soaking difficult stains. Be careful as it is easy to pull colors and bleed a garment. A couple of hours soak is generally enough. Warm water can make this a much more aggressive technique.
Ammonia: Use at 50% strength diluted with water to flush out fresh blood stains on a shirt. Be patient and blot thoroughly then wash. BLOOD: If you are going to get blood out, be sure you are prepared to work at it. Use COLD water and DO NOT GIVE UP. Once you have worked on the stain - if it is still there, and you wash and dry the garment - it will be a permanent stain
Bleach: I do not recommend bleach. If you must, be sure to rinse MUCH MORE THAN YOU THINK IS NECESSARY. Bleach will eat the stains and the fabric - resulting in holes and other damage.
Pet Stains: Blot with a vinegar/water mixture - one quart warm water to 1/2 cup white vinegar.
Fabreze*: Another product I love. It is excellent for removing odor. A light spray and some sunshine can do wonders to restore a musty, smoky or smelly item.
"Old Wives' Tales" (that do not work); CLUB SODA - considered by many as a "cure all" for practically every mishap, it usually just spreads out the stain and can make removal of oily stains like butter and gravy almost impossible. Then there is WHITE WINE to remove red wine (please don't try it!). HAIR SPRAY to remove ink and WATER to remove almost anything. But when a spill happens in a social situation and a napkin dipped in water or club soda is used and rubbed, it breaks fibers and causes color loss ("crocking").
These remedies often appear to be helping, when in fact the majority of the time, a very expensive piece of you clothing investment is being ruined.
Quick Tips to Make Laundry Easy
This is a short list of do's and don'ts that will make it easy for you to improve the results you get using your home washing machine.
DO wash new colored garments separately, colors can and do often bleed (especially the first few washes)!
DON'T over dry. Use a dryer with an automatic sensing feature, or be sure to set the timer so as not to over dry. Over drying set wrinkles, causes shrinkage, and unnecessary fabric damage.
DON'T leave damp clothes in the washer for an extended period of time. Mold, mildew and just a bad odor will often result.
DO remove clothes from the dryer promptly and shake them out. This minimizes wrinkles and the need to iron. Even an ironless shirt will be wrinkled if over dried and left in the dryer for an extended period!
DO use plastic hangers when line drying.
DON'T use chlorine bleach. Even 100% cotton men's shirts are generally not receptive to chlorine bleach. It will shorten the life of the shirt, possibly cause holes and can destroy the interfacing in the placket and collars - this is because the interfacing if often polyester (even in a 100% cotton shirt).
DO wash new colored garments separately, colors can and do often bleed (especially the first few washes)!
DON'T over dry. Use a dryer with an automatic sensing feature, or be sure to set the timer so as not to over dry. Over drying set wrinkles, causes shrinkage, and unnecessary fabric damage.
DON'T leave damp clothes in the washer for an extended period of time. Mold, mildew and just a bad odor will often result.
DO remove clothes from the dryer promptly and shake them out. This minimizes wrinkles and the need to iron. Even an ironless shirt will be wrinkled if over dried and left in the dryer for an extended period!
DO use plastic hangers when line drying.
DON'T use chlorine bleach. Even 100% cotton men's shirts are generally not receptive to chlorine bleach. It will shorten the life of the shirt, possibly cause holes and can destroy the interfacing in the placket and collars - this is because the interfacing if often polyester (even in a 100% cotton shirt).
Laundry/Handwash/Wetclean: Whats the difference?
A common customer complaint is - "why did you charge dryclean prices when I asked for these items to be washed?" (For a look at the best deal at the cleaners check out "Shirt Laundry" in a previous blog.)
The answer lies in the finishing (as we have touched on before). 80% of a drycleaners cost is due to the labor and time consuming process of finishing. The price category "Drycleaning" does not necessarily mean an item was cleaned in drycleaning solvent. For example, most drycleaners define "wetcleaning" as "drycleaning with a little water".
Laundry/Machine Wash/Hand Wash/Wetclean . . . all terms apply to the cleaning of garments in water. So why are there so many terms? There are subtle differences you should be aware of.
Laundry is the most general of the terms. A textile is cleaned using water as the solvent
Machine Wash, as defined by the Federal Trade commission, is a process by which soil may be removed from items with water, detergent, soap, agitation, and a machine designed for the purpose. When no temperature is given, hot water up to 150F is used.
Hand Wash is defined the same as machine wash with the exception that a gentle squeezing action is used in place of a machine.
Wetcleaning is a term used to describe the extension of the range of hand washing for the purpose of restoring a garment. The majority of these techniques involve soaking for extended periods, tightly controlled chemicals, temperature and agitation. This technique is not readily available to the general public and require extensive experience to avoid garment damage.
The answer lies in the finishing (as we have touched on before). 80% of a drycleaners cost is due to the labor and time consuming process of finishing. The price category "Drycleaning" does not necessarily mean an item was cleaned in drycleaning solvent. For example, most drycleaners define "wetcleaning" as "drycleaning with a little water".
Laundry/Machine Wash/Hand Wash/Wetclean . . . all terms apply to the cleaning of garments in water. So why are there so many terms? There are subtle differences you should be aware of.
Laundry is the most general of the terms. A textile is cleaned using water as the solvent
Machine Wash, as defined by the Federal Trade commission, is a process by which soil may be removed from items with water, detergent, soap, agitation, and a machine designed for the purpose. When no temperature is given, hot water up to 150F is used.
Hand Wash is defined the same as machine wash with the exception that a gentle squeezing action is used in place of a machine.
Wetcleaning is a term used to describe the extension of the range of hand washing for the purpose of restoring a garment. The majority of these techniques involve soaking for extended periods, tightly controlled chemicals, temperature and agitation. This technique is not readily available to the general public and require extensive experience to avoid garment damage.
You Can Have the Perfect Closet (for your clothes)!
If you are like me, you have a significant investment in our wardrobe and you have a few pieces that you expect to hold onto for many seasons. How and where we store our garments has a huge effect on their life expectacy. A well designed closet should keep your items organized and keep them in good condition. It is astounding the damage that can be done to garments by a poorly designed closet - from insect damage to mildew, sun fading and more. Below are some tips on creating the perfect closet (from a garment storage perspective:-).
Use low wattage lights in your closet - AND NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT! I am amazed at how many sky lights or windows I see in closets. Windows are not for your closet. The sun will bleach your clothes the same way it will bleach your hair. I have also seen ultraviolet lights being sold for closets. These lights do an excellent job at controlling mildew but serious sun fading can result!
If you have a bright closet, or blocking the window is not an option, put clean white sheets over items you don't wear frequently. You can poke a hole in the middle of the sheet to put over the hanger.
Closets that have one (or heaven forbid more than one) exterior wall should not be used for long term storage of garments. Closets with exterior walls tend to have higher humidity. Anything stored next to an outside wall will be effected by both the changes in temperature and the absorption of moisture. Guest room closets with are infrequently opened should also be avoided or as a minimum leave the doors ajar periodically to air them out.
Closet tip . . . when you are away on a trip, open all your closet doors to allow air to circulate. This will reduce humidity and control mildew growth. Also insects cause the most damage when they are isolated and un-bothered.
Closet dryers are available such as the crystalline type for small storage areas. You can find them and better hardware stores. Larger closets require electric dryers.
Do no pack clothes tightly into a closet -- they need room to breath
Cedar lining of a closet can help reduce insect damage. The cedar requires rejuvenation YEARLY by scuffing up the surface as the cedar will reseal itself. I do no recommend moth balls! The moth ball odor is often impossible to remove from garments. For long term storage I recommend a cedar chest.
Some tips that even the perfect closet would appreciate:
Cedar closet lining can be cut to length and laid on shelves or placed in drawers. This is much more effective and less costly than purchasing cedar blocks.
Never put garments away for the season (or an extended period) without cleaning them. Invisible stains (fruit juice, champagne, white wine, etc) will oxidize (picture how an apple turns brown after you take a bite and set it aside). Oxidized stains are very difficult to remove. Also, it is the soils in the clothes that insects love. So putting worn garments in your closet will be an invitation to bugs.
Room dry all damp clothes and leather and suedes after each wear, BEFORE returning them to the closet. Fabrics and especially leather and suede are hygroscopic and will retain moisture when worn.
Store knits flat! Gravity can do great damage over time to many garments. Knits are especially prone because they are constructed to move and stretch. Always store knits flat on a shelf or in a drawer. I have seen fine knits that have stretched several inches from hanging in the closet.
Heavy and beaded garments should be stored on padded hangers, with pin supports and using the provided straps for further support. If there are none, you can pin a strap to each side at the waist. This helps remove some of the weight and retain the garment's shape.
Never store clothing in plastic bags provided by the drycleaner. Those bags are intended to protect your items on the trip home from the cleaner. The bags catch gasses given off by the atmosphere, garments and that come out of the plastic. When contained in the bags such gases can build up in concentrations to damaging levels.
Use low wattage lights in your closet - AND NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT! I am amazed at how many sky lights or windows I see in closets. Windows are not for your closet. The sun will bleach your clothes the same way it will bleach your hair. I have also seen ultraviolet lights being sold for closets. These lights do an excellent job at controlling mildew but serious sun fading can result!
If you have a bright closet, or blocking the window is not an option, put clean white sheets over items you don't wear frequently. You can poke a hole in the middle of the sheet to put over the hanger.
Closets that have one (or heaven forbid more than one) exterior wall should not be used for long term storage of garments. Closets with exterior walls tend to have higher humidity. Anything stored next to an outside wall will be effected by both the changes in temperature and the absorption of moisture. Guest room closets with are infrequently opened should also be avoided or as a minimum leave the doors ajar periodically to air them out.
Closet tip . . . when you are away on a trip, open all your closet doors to allow air to circulate. This will reduce humidity and control mildew growth. Also insects cause the most damage when they are isolated and un-bothered.
Closet dryers are available such as the crystalline type for small storage areas. You can find them and better hardware stores. Larger closets require electric dryers.
Do no pack clothes tightly into a closet -- they need room to breath
Cedar lining of a closet can help reduce insect damage. The cedar requires rejuvenation YEARLY by scuffing up the surface as the cedar will reseal itself. I do no recommend moth balls! The moth ball odor is often impossible to remove from garments. For long term storage I recommend a cedar chest.
Some tips that even the perfect closet would appreciate:
Cedar closet lining can be cut to length and laid on shelves or placed in drawers. This is much more effective and less costly than purchasing cedar blocks.
Never put garments away for the season (or an extended period) without cleaning them. Invisible stains (fruit juice, champagne, white wine, etc) will oxidize (picture how an apple turns brown after you take a bite and set it aside). Oxidized stains are very difficult to remove. Also, it is the soils in the clothes that insects love. So putting worn garments in your closet will be an invitation to bugs.
Room dry all damp clothes and leather and suedes after each wear, BEFORE returning them to the closet. Fabrics and especially leather and suede are hygroscopic and will retain moisture when worn.
Store knits flat! Gravity can do great damage over time to many garments. Knits are especially prone because they are constructed to move and stretch. Always store knits flat on a shelf or in a drawer. I have seen fine knits that have stretched several inches from hanging in the closet.
Heavy and beaded garments should be stored on padded hangers, with pin supports and using the provided straps for further support. If there are none, you can pin a strap to each side at the waist. This helps remove some of the weight and retain the garment's shape.
Never store clothing in plastic bags provided by the drycleaner. Those bags are intended to protect your items on the trip home from the cleaner. The bags catch gasses given off by the atmosphere, garments and that come out of the plastic. When contained in the bags such gases can build up in concentrations to damaging levels.
History of Drycleaning
Spirits of turpentine were used to remove stains of an oily nature as far back as the beginning of the 18th century. The garment cleaning industry existed in both Europe and the United States prior to the mid-1800's. The trade was known as "dyer-scourer." The cleaners job was based on wet cleaning processes with solvents used for localized spot removal.
The process reversed itself in the late 18th century and relied primarily on the use of solvents for cleaning as opposed to water. Cleaners found that less shrinkage, dye loss, and wrinkling occurred making the finishing operations easier.
The first dry cleaning operation was Mr. J. B. Jolly's cleaning and dyeing firm in Paris, France. Primarily camphene solvent was used. This solvent was less than ideal as it left a lingering odor of turpentine. Other early solvents included benzole, kerosene and gasoline.
In 1928 W. J. Stoddard developed an acceptable petroleum based solvent which became known as Stoddard solvent. Because of its low flash point of 100 degrees, another similar solvent called 140degree solvent was developed because it was safer. This solvent remains in use today.
In the 1930's trichloloroethylene and carbon tetrachloride were being used starting a trend toward synthetic solvents. These solvents were advantageous because they were non-flammable and fast drying. Also in the 1930's perchloroethylene came into use and is still the primary solvent used today. One other solvent developed in the 1960's known as flourocarbon solvent has the advantage of its gentleness to fabrics and dyes. Because of the discovery of the detrimental effect on the ozone layer, this solvent was phased out of use in the US.
Today, petroleum solvents (often called organic, true, but there is no healthful advantage to a petroleum solvent), and perchloroethylene are the major solvents utilized for the drycleaning industry. Many alternatives are being developed, Silicone (Green Earth), CO2, Drysolve, etc. in an effort to clean and be more environmentally conscious.
Source Note: Drycleaning Laundry Institute, MD
The process reversed itself in the late 18th century and relied primarily on the use of solvents for cleaning as opposed to water. Cleaners found that less shrinkage, dye loss, and wrinkling occurred making the finishing operations easier.
The first dry cleaning operation was Mr. J. B. Jolly's cleaning and dyeing firm in Paris, France. Primarily camphene solvent was used. This solvent was less than ideal as it left a lingering odor of turpentine. Other early solvents included benzole, kerosene and gasoline.
In 1928 W. J. Stoddard developed an acceptable petroleum based solvent which became known as Stoddard solvent. Because of its low flash point of 100 degrees, another similar solvent called 140degree solvent was developed because it was safer. This solvent remains in use today.
In the 1930's trichloloroethylene and carbon tetrachloride were being used starting a trend toward synthetic solvents. These solvents were advantageous because they were non-flammable and fast drying. Also in the 1930's perchloroethylene came into use and is still the primary solvent used today. One other solvent developed in the 1960's known as flourocarbon solvent has the advantage of its gentleness to fabrics and dyes. Because of the discovery of the detrimental effect on the ozone layer, this solvent was phased out of use in the US.
Today, petroleum solvents (often called organic, true, but there is no healthful advantage to a petroleum solvent), and perchloroethylene are the major solvents utilized for the drycleaning industry. Many alternatives are being developed, Silicone (Green Earth), CO2, Drysolve, etc. in an effort to clean and be more environmentally conscious.
Source Note: Drycleaning Laundry Institute, MD
Caring for Your Neck Tie
A favorite Christmas gift for men is the necktie. Neckties are also a way to add a fashion statement to men's business attire. Today I want to talk about what you can do to make you ties last for years to come!
AVOID STAINS: People don't realize that ties are specialty items and are not really intended to be cleaned too frequently. That said - the best way to avoid wear is to protect your tie when you eat. Pulling it to the side, removing it or covering it with a napkin are all good options.
UNTIE THE KNOT: Leaving the tie knotted between wearings may cause permanent wrinkles. Always store your ties untied! Be gentle when you tie and untie your tie. Do not pull the small end through the knot to untie as this action forces undue stress on the fragile bias material comprising most ties.
REMOVING WATER MARKS: Ties should not be rubbed to remove a stain with the exception of water marks. Some water marks can be removed by lightly rubbing the mark with the small end of the tie, use no moisture or agents. Be sure to rub gently and monitor progress from all angles to prevent damage to the finish.
REMOVING WRINKLES: After removing your tie for the day, if there are any wrinkles, roll the tie around a finger, slip the rolled tie off, and store overnight. Do not roll too tightly and do not keep it in the rolled up position for more than a day or two. If this is unsuccessful, try rolling the tie in the other direction. Never press a tie with an iron!
CLEANING TIES: Ties are very fragile and require experienced and competent care. Proper cleaning can only be achieved by a professional that will take the care to hand treat, very gently clean, and block the tie to its proper shape. Ties should never be ironed or pressed, as such actions will force the bias material out of shape and cause impressions, crease edges and generally remove life from the tie.
Inspect some finished work from a cleaner before entrusting one with such unique articles.
AVOID STAINS: People don't realize that ties are specialty items and are not really intended to be cleaned too frequently. That said - the best way to avoid wear is to protect your tie when you eat. Pulling it to the side, removing it or covering it with a napkin are all good options.
UNTIE THE KNOT: Leaving the tie knotted between wearings may cause permanent wrinkles. Always store your ties untied! Be gentle when you tie and untie your tie. Do not pull the small end through the knot to untie as this action forces undue stress on the fragile bias material comprising most ties.
REMOVING WATER MARKS: Ties should not be rubbed to remove a stain with the exception of water marks. Some water marks can be removed by lightly rubbing the mark with the small end of the tie, use no moisture or agents. Be sure to rub gently and monitor progress from all angles to prevent damage to the finish.
REMOVING WRINKLES: After removing your tie for the day, if there are any wrinkles, roll the tie around a finger, slip the rolled tie off, and store overnight. Do not roll too tightly and do not keep it in the rolled up position for more than a day or two. If this is unsuccessful, try rolling the tie in the other direction. Never press a tie with an iron!
CLEANING TIES: Ties are very fragile and require experienced and competent care. Proper cleaning can only be achieved by a professional that will take the care to hand treat, very gently clean, and block the tie to its proper shape. Ties should never be ironed or pressed, as such actions will force the bias material out of shape and cause impressions, crease edges and generally remove life from the tie.
Inspect some finished work from a cleaner before entrusting one with such unique articles.
Live Longer, Look Younger
I mean your drapes, of course.
Nothing brightens a room like clean drapes and window treatments. And there are a few things to know in order to keep your drapes living longer, and looking younger.
Drapes and window treatments are made of a variety of cloths, from heavy durable fabrics, to light, transparent materials. But no matter what they are made of, a number of environmental factors will affect their condition and lifespan. These include:
Sunlight
Sun damage and fading strike unlined drapes the hardest. Sunlight will not only fade colors but also wear on the threads of the fabric itself. While man[made fibers such as polyester are more resistant to such damage, no material is immune
Oxidation
Fumes from pollution, cooking, smoking, etc., contain chemicals which will cling to curtains and drapes. When combined with humidity and oxygen, these chemicals can create a mild acid which hastens deterioration.
Shrinkage
Humidity and air quality can cause drapes to shrink 2%! Over time, this shrinkage can be progressive.
Dyes and Pigments
Drapery dyes, like all dyes, are subject to changes over time. These can include bleeding, cracking and running. Pigments held on fabric with a binding agent can also crack, stiffen and fade over time.
Humidity and Moisture
Often, condensation on windows comes into contact with drapes leaving permanent water marks.
It is important to protect your valuable investment with regular cleaning in order to remove the soiling and deposits of vapors and fumes that com from heating systems, fireplaces, cooking and dust. How often draperies should be cleaned depends on location and amount of sunlight. Kitchen draperies, or those in a household with smokers, should be cleaned annually, whereas those used in a guest room with minimal sunlight need cleaning only once every two to four years. Those near intake or heating agents, or close to windows which are often opened, need cleaning every one to two years.
If you would like to freshen up your home prior to the Holiday Season, please plan ahead to allow sufficient time for the entire process. Prior to taking down your window treatments - take a digital photo to document their layout and appearance. This helps to ensure that the decorator's original intent is preserved. Prior to cleaning the treatments themselves will be measured both before and after cleaning. 5% shrinkage is considered acceptable by the fabric manufacturers. And rehanging by an experienced professional can compensate for these sort of shortcomings.
So here's hoping your drapes and window treatments live a long and youthful life:-)
Nothing brightens a room like clean drapes and window treatments. And there are a few things to know in order to keep your drapes living longer, and looking younger.
Drapes and window treatments are made of a variety of cloths, from heavy durable fabrics, to light, transparent materials. But no matter what they are made of, a number of environmental factors will affect their condition and lifespan. These include:
Sunlight
Sun damage and fading strike unlined drapes the hardest. Sunlight will not only fade colors but also wear on the threads of the fabric itself. While man[made fibers such as polyester are more resistant to such damage, no material is immune
Oxidation
Fumes from pollution, cooking, smoking, etc., contain chemicals which will cling to curtains and drapes. When combined with humidity and oxygen, these chemicals can create a mild acid which hastens deterioration.
Shrinkage
Humidity and air quality can cause drapes to shrink 2%! Over time, this shrinkage can be progressive.
Dyes and Pigments
Drapery dyes, like all dyes, are subject to changes over time. These can include bleeding, cracking and running. Pigments held on fabric with a binding agent can also crack, stiffen and fade over time.
Humidity and Moisture
Often, condensation on windows comes into contact with drapes leaving permanent water marks.
It is important to protect your valuable investment with regular cleaning in order to remove the soiling and deposits of vapors and fumes that com from heating systems, fireplaces, cooking and dust. How often draperies should be cleaned depends on location and amount of sunlight. Kitchen draperies, or those in a household with smokers, should be cleaned annually, whereas those used in a guest room with minimal sunlight need cleaning only once every two to four years. Those near intake or heating agents, or close to windows which are often opened, need cleaning every one to two years.
If you would like to freshen up your home prior to the Holiday Season, please plan ahead to allow sufficient time for the entire process. Prior to taking down your window treatments - take a digital photo to document their layout and appearance. This helps to ensure that the decorator's original intent is preserved. Prior to cleaning the treatments themselves will be measured both before and after cleaning. 5% shrinkage is considered acceptable by the fabric manufacturers. And rehanging by an experienced professional can compensate for these sort of shortcomings.
So here's hoping your drapes and window treatments live a long and youthful life:-)
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